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Just finished my install of the 10 inch hideaway. It was pretty easy once you know where to connect. Taking things apart was pretty simple for anyone who does basic mechanical work. Local audio shop helped me with finding the rear speaker cables to tap into for my new sub. (Non Bose version). Also replaced my door speakers with kicker cs series. Gutted the factory speakers to reuse the bracket and plugs. Still have to do my fronts but it’s much better with the new bass. View attachment 3731
Did you run a power wire directly to the battery and did you tap to both left and right rear speaker line to get the audio signal?
 

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Did you run a power wire directly to the battery and did you tap to both left and right rear speaker line to get the audio signal?
I did run a dedicated line with fuse to my battery. (With the wires included in the box.) Actually my engine fuse box’s main line so I didn’t have to cut into the positive cover. Then added a circuit to my module 2 fuse that controls my usbs power. So when I turn my car on the box turns on. Also I tapped both into just the rear left speaker since it’s only one ten inch sub on the kicker.
 

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I did run a dedicated line with fuse to my battery.
Just a reminder to anyone new to 12V wiring: you need to put the fuse as close as possible to the battery. The fuse's job is to protect the wiring from catching fire and not the amp.
 

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Just finished my install of the 10 inch hideaway. It was pretty easy once you know where to connect. Taking things apart was pretty simple for anyone who does basic mechanical work. Local audio shop helped me with finding the rear speaker cables to tap into for my new sub. (Non Bose version). Also replaced my door speakers with kicker cs series. Gutted the factory speakers to reuse the bracket and plugs. Still have to do my fronts but it’s much better with the new bass. View attachment 3731
Just finished my install of the 10 inch hideaway. It was pretty easy once you know where to connect. Taking things apart was pretty simple for anyone who does basic mechanical work. Local audio shop helped me with finding the rear speaker cables to tap into for my new sub. (Non Bose version). Also replaced my door speakers with kicker cs series. Gutted the factory speakers to reuse the bracket and plugs. Still have to do my fronts but it’s much better with the new bass. View attachment 3731
Can you provide details on the install? It appears that there are several low profile subs that might work.
Clint
AZ
 

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Can you provide details on the install? It appears that there are several low profile subs that might work.
Clint
AZ
Sure! I used some posts on this board to figure out the kicker hideaway 10inch fits perfectly. So after picking one up I gutted the car. First removing the under seat storage then then bolts that hold the seat belts and seat bottoms. Then the seat backs. The placement was really perfect imo. Though I did mount it to the back wall. I ran my power to the battery and followed the door stills/gasket. They pull right up and have an excellent channel to run the wires. This is also how I ran the speaker wires. I tapped into the speaker wires in driver side column. Went to an audio shop to help confirm where to tap into and since it’s just one speaker no need to use both left and right. I just put both there. Put everything back and you're good. Hope this helps.
 

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Sure! I used some posts on this board to figure out the kicker hideaway 10inch fits perfectly. So after picking one up I gutted the car. First removing the under seat storage then then bolts that hold the seat belts and seat bottoms. Then the seat backs. The placement was really perfect imo. Though I did mount it to the back wall. I ran my power to the battery and followed the door stills/gasket. They pull right up and have an excellent channel to run the wires. This is also how I ran the speaker wires. I tapped into the speaker wires in driver side column. Went to an audio shop to help confirm where to tap into and since it’s just one speaker no need to use both left and right. I just put both there. Put everything back and you're good. Hope this helps.
Thanks - great info. I suspect you mounted the speaker in a vertical position. I have seen some posts that indicated that a vertical position might cause overheating. However, I don't think that there is any other position that can be used for the rear seat location.

Clint
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Thanks - great info. I suspect you mounted the speaker in a vertical position. I have seen some posts that indicated that a vertical position might cause overheating. However, I don't think that there is any other position that can be used for the rear seat location.

Clint
AZ
I saw those reviews too about overheating. I suspect it's more of an airflow issue than a vertical position issue though anything is possible.

To try to combat this instead of setting the sub against the floor I mounted to the rear wall about an inch or so above the floor so that air could flow all around it. Used one of the upper mounting points directly to a stud on the wall, and for the other used a bracket maybe 2" long to reach another stud that was close. The back wall is uneven so I think we used some spacers to keep it vertical, so there is also an air gap behind some of it. Best I can tell there is also room behind the back of the seat for airflow so as it warms up it should be able to convectively cool itself.

Whether it helps cooling or not, it seemed like a good idea at the time and I've had no issues with mine. The only thing that sucks is having to strip the seats if you need to adjust any controls on the unit itself, but so far no issues there.
 

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Just finished my install of the 10 inch hideaway. It was pretty easy once you know where to connect. Taking things apart was pretty simple for anyone who does basic mechanical work. Local audio shop helped me with finding the rear speaker cables to tap into for my new sub. (Non Bose version). Also replaced my door speakers with kicker cs series. Gutted the factory speakers to reuse the bracket and plugs. Still have to do my fronts but it’s much better with the new bass. View attachment 3731
Where did you hook into the rear speakers
 

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I saw those reviews too about overheating. I suspect it's more of an airflow issue than a vertical position issue though anything is possible.

To try to combat this instead of setting the sub against the floor I mounted to the rear wall about an inch or so above the floor so that air could flow all around it. Used one of the upper mounting points directly to a stud on the wall, and for the other used a bracket maybe 2" long to reach another stud that was close. The back wall is uneven so I think we used some spacers to keep it vertical, so there is also an air gap behind some of it. Best I can tell there is also room behind the back of the seat for airflow so as it warms up it should be able to convectively cool itself.

Whether it helps cooling or not, it seemed like a good idea at the time and I've had no issues with mine. The only thing that sucks is having to strip the seats if you need to adjust any controls on the unit itself, but so far no issues there.
I was hoping that the subwoofer could be installed under the driver or passenger seats, but there is not enough room for a box that is 3" tall. The subwoofer would end up blocking the air flow vents under either seat. And the vents cannot be raised up so that the subwoofer could slide under the vent. So that leaves only one spot - the rear seat. I suspect that one loses quite a bit of sound since it has to travel through the seat cushion. Thus the need for a powerful 10" speaker as opposed to the lower power 8" units.

Clint
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I suspect that one loses quite a bit of sound since it has to travel through the seat cushion. Thus the need for a powerful 10" speaker as opposed to the lower power 8" units.
Not really, the stock "subwoofer" is only 5" so anything you add will be an upgrade. As someone who installed many audio systems in standard cab trucks that behind the seat location works just fine with smaller subs. However when in doubt go as big as you can.

A better solution would be a custom box that replaces the under seat rear storage bins - you see such solutions in most full size trucks. Down-firing, front slotted would be my preference for an enclosure but I am getting too old to put in that level of effort when I can buy something off the shelf and simply drop it behind the seat.
 
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Where did you hook into the rear speakers
Just scoping out the install for behind the rear seat on the driver side. It looks like the bottom seat comes out with three bolts. Do you think that you needed the extra power of the Kicker 10 over the 8" unit. The 10" unit is about $70 more, but is almost the same size as the 8". What trim did you have to remove to run the power cable? What trim did you have to remove to tap into the existing speaker cable?

Clint
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I suspect that one loses quite a bit of sound since it has to travel through the seat cushion. Thus the need for a powerful 10" speaker as opposed to the lower power 8" units.
This is the factory sub location for the Bose system. And there is plenty of airspace under the seat for the sound to travel. I did not note a big difference in sound with the seat removed or installed. Bass is nondirectional anyway.

Just scoping out the install for behind the rear seat on the driver side. It looks like the bottom seat comes out with three bolts. Do you think that you needed the extra power of the Kicker 10 over the 8" unit. The 10" unit is about $70 more, but is almost the same size as the 8". What trim did you have to remove to run the power cable? What trim did you have to remove to tap into the existing speaker cable?
I did a lot of reading before jumping on this. What swayed me to the 10" was reading on some Jeep forums when the 10" was released the people that had the 8" and raved about how much better the 10 was. I also looked at several other units from competing brands but there were so many bad reviews on many of them. And many of the names I remember from my hardcore car audio days are now just licensed to no-name companies. Kicker is still Kicker.

I had help on the install but I don't think we had to remove any trim but the weatherstripping or maybe the door still trim to route the power cable. It was very simple and went fast. Punching through the grommet at the firewall and feeding the wire through was the trickiest part because the grommet we used is down behind the shock tower and not in view from the front. We pushed a coat hanger through and used two people, me under the hood and a helper inside to maneuver the wire hanger until I could pull it. Taped the power cable to the coat hanger and pulled it through. Had to spend an extra few minutes reseating the grommet because I pulled it out getting the cable through too aggressively.

My buddy that helped had a cordless ratchet that made quick work of the seats. The bottoms are easy and yes three or four bolts had it out. A couple more for the seat belts. The back is a separate piece and have bolts you have to pry out little trim panels under the back window to access. Still really simple.

My signal wires were easy because I had the Bose sub already in place. I would imagine with the base stereo you would have to catch the wires to one of the driver's side door speakers before it goes into the door. You might be able to catch the rear door wires at the B pillar or it might be easier to get them at the driver's kick panel. I think one of the posters above could elaborate on where they caught the wires on a base model stereo.
 

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This is the factory sub location for the Bose system. And there is plenty of airspace under the seat for the sound to travel. I did not note a big difference in sound with the seat removed or installed. Bass is nondirectional anyway.


I did a lot of reading before jumping on this. What swayed me to the 10" was reading on some Jeep forums when the 10" was released the people that had the 8" and raved about how much better the 10 was. I also looked at several other units from competing brands but there were so many bad reviews on many of them. And many of the names I remember from my hardcore car audio days are now just licensed to no-name companies. Kicker is still Kicker.

I had help on the install but I don't think we had to remove any trim but the weatherstripping or maybe the door still trim to route the power cable. It was very simple and went fast. Punching through the grommet at the firewall and feeding the wire through was the trickiest part because the grommet we used is down behind the shock tower and not in view from the front. We pushed a coat hanger through and used two people, me under the hood and a helper inside to maneuver the wire hanger until I could pull it. Taped the power cable to the coat hanger and pulled it through. Had to spend an extra few minutes reseating the grommet because I pulled it out getting the cable through too aggressively.

My buddy that helped had a cordless ratchet that made quick work of the seats. The bottoms are easy and yes three or four bolts had it out. A couple more for the seat belts. The back is a separate piece and have bolts you have to pry out little trim panels under the back window to access. Still really simple.

My signal wires were easy because I had the Bose sub already in place. I would imagine with the base stereo you would have to catch the wires to one of the driver's side door speakers before it goes into the door. You might be able to catch the rear door wires at the B pillar or it might be easier to get them at the driver's kick panel. I think one of the posters above could elaborate on where they caught the wires on a base model stereo.
I'll be adding the kicker to my Bose system this weekend, I posted these questions in a separate post but haven't gotten a reply.

1) Are the existing speaker wires from the 5" sub easily identifiable when plugging them into the kicker?
2) Did you just use the DC offset setting vs running a separate remote turn-on?
3) Did you have to pop off or pull up trim pieces to run your 12v + wire up to the battery, (my experience is the floor trim pieces never sit as firmly as they used to once popped off).
4) Did you run the remote bass adjustment knob? If so where? I was thinking to see if i was able t run under the carpet to the center armrest console and pop a hole in the bottom and run it into the armrest cavity.
 

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1) Are the existing speaker wires from the 5" sub easily identifiable when plugging them into the kicker?
Yes. They are the only wires that go to the sub. We tested polarity with a speaker tester and noted which wire was positive (I think you could do the same with a 9V battery, when positive terminal makes the speaker go forward/out you have the correct polarity).

2) Did you just use the DC offset setting vs running a separate remote turn-on?
Yes. It does detect when the car turns on (iirc when you unlock the door). It has a delay but does turn off like 3-5 minutes after the car shuts off. No problems with it.
3) Did you have to pop off or pull up trim pieces to run your 12v + wire up to the battery, (my experience is the floor trim pieces never sit as firmly as they used to once popped off).
I had help and my buddy did that part of the install. I don't know if he popped the sill trim or tucked the wire under, I just know it didn't take any time to do it and I don't have any issues with trim seating. He's a professional installer so if I had to guess he probably popped the trim out.
4) Did you run the remote bass adjustment knob? If so where? I was thinking to see if i was able t run under the carpet to the center armrest console and pop a hole in the bottom and run it into the armrest cavity.
Yes, and I'm kind of glad I did. I don't use it often but it does come in handy since the unit is inaccessible once the seat is back in. Mine is on the bottom edge of the dash near the driver's door. I can reach and adjust it while driving if necessary. We looked at placements in the center console and in the center stack and couldn't come up with anything that looked good and was accessible to wire so we went with easy and it works. The wire kind of sucks because it's 1/8" plugs on both ends so not easily cut to length. Rather than cut it and either splice the wires or resolder a plug on it, I have a bundle of the cable zip tied up under the dash. We weren't 100% sure I would want to keep it there and kept the cable intact for the flexibility to move it later.

I believe there is enough length on the cable to go up the door sills, through the dash, and back down to the center console if you have a good location in there and didn't want to pull your carpet up. It seemed to be plenty long. I do think there are issues with how the plug goes into the knob that prevent you from mounting it with the back flush to something like the bottom of the center console without drilling a big enough hole to accommodate the plug for it to sit in.
 

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Yes. They are the only wires that go to the sub. We tested polarity with a speaker tester and noted which wire was positive (I think you could do the same with a 9V battery, when positive terminal makes the speaker go forward/out you have the correct polarity).


Yes. It does detect when the car turns on (iirc when you unlock the door). It has a delay but does turn off like 3-5 minutes after the car shuts off. No problems with it.

I had help and my buddy did that part of the install. I don't know if he popped the sill trim or tucked the wire under, I just know it didn't take any time to do it and I don't have any issues with trim seating. He's a professional installer so if I had to guess he probably popped the trim out.

Yes, and I'm kind of glad I did. I don't use it often but it does come in handy since the unit is inaccessible once the seat is back in. Mine is on the bottom edge of the dash near the driver's door. I can reach and adjust it while driving if necessary. We looked at placements in the center console and in the center stack and couldn't come up with anything that looked good and was accessible to wire so we went with easy and it works. The wire kind of sucks because it's 1/8" plugs on both ends so not easily cut to length. Rather than cut it and either splice the wires or resolder a plug on it, I have a bundle of the cable zip tied up under the dash. We weren't 100% sure I would want to keep it there and kept the cable intact for the flexibility to move it later.

I believe there is enough length on the cable to go up the door sills, through the dash, and back down to the center console if you have a good location in there and didn't want to pull your carpet up. It seemed to be plenty long. I do think there are issues with how the plug goes into the knob that prevent you from mounting it with the back flush to something like the bottom of the center console without drilling a big enough hole to accommodate the plug for it to sit in.
Thanks for the answers, I'll update once I get started. Kicker supposed to arrive on Friday.
 

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This is the factory sub location for the Bose system. And there is plenty of airspace under the seat for the sound to travel. I did not note a big difference in sound with the seat removed or installed. Bass is nondirectional anyway.


I did a lot of reading before jumping on this. What swayed me to the 10" was reading on some Jeep forums when the 10" was released the people that had the 8" and raved about how much better the 10 was. I also looked at several other units from competing brands but there were so many bad reviews on many of them. And many of the names I remember from my hardcore car audio days are now just licensed to no-name companies. Kicker is still Kicker.

I had help on the install but I don't think we had to remove any trim but the weatherstripping or maybe the door still trim to route the power cable. It was very simple and went fast. Punching through the grommet at the firewall and feeding the wire through was the trickiest part because the grommet we used is down behind the shock tower and not in view from the front. We pushed a coat hanger through and used two people, me under the hood and a helper inside to maneuver the wire hanger until I could pull it. Taped the power cable to the coat hanger and pulled it through. Had to spend an extra few minutes reseating the grommet because I pulled it out getting the cable through too aggressively.

My buddy that helped had a cordless ratchet that made quick work of the seats. The bottoms are easy and yes three or four bolts had it out. A couple more for the seat belts. The back is a separate piece and have bolts you have to pry out little trim panels under the back window to access. Still really simple.

My signal wires were easy because I had the Bose sub already in place. I would imagine with the base stereo you would have to catch the wires to one of the driver's side door speakers before it goes into the door. You might be able to catch the rear door wires at the B pillar or it might be easier to get them at the driver's kick panel. I think one of the posters above could elaborate on where they caught the wires on a base model stereo.
I talked with Kicker tech support about the mounting position. The tech said that there was no problem in mounting the amp vertically. He also said the biggest problem he has seen is with end-users blowing up the 8" hideway by trying to get too much power out of it.

Clint
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Yes. They are the only wires that go to the sub. We tested polarity with a speaker tester and noted which wire was positive (I think you could do the same with a 9V battery, when positive terminal makes the speaker go forward/out you have the correct polarity).


Yes. It does detect when the car turns on (iirc when you unlock the door). It has a delay but does turn off like 3-5 minutes after the car shuts off. No problems with it.

I had help and my buddy did that part of the install. I don't know if he popped the sill trim or tucked the wire under, I just know it didn't take any time to do it and I don't have any issues with trim seating. He's a professional installer so if I had to guess he probably popped the trim out.

Yes, and I'm kind of glad I did. I don't use it often but it does come in handy since the unit is inaccessible once the seat is back in. Mine is on the bottom edge of the dash near the driver's door. I can reach and adjust it while driving if necessary. We looked at placements in the center console and in the center stack and couldn't come up with anything that looked good and was accessible to wire so we went with easy and it works. The wire kind of sucks because it's 1/8" plugs on both ends so not easily cut to length. Rather than cut it and either splice the wires or resolder a plug on it, I have a bundle of the cable zip tied up under the dash. We weren't 100% sure I would want to keep it there and kept the cable intact for the flexibility to move it later.

I believe there is enough length on the cable to go up the door sills, through the dash, and back down to the center console if you have a good location in there and didn't want to pull your carpet up. It seemed to be plenty long. I do think there are issues with how the plug goes into the knob that prevent you from mounting it with the back flush to something like the bottom of the center console without drilling a big enough hole to accommodate the plug for it to sit in.
Do you happen to remember which one was positive on your setup? Red or blue? Did you pair both white and grey (+)s together to one and both white and grey (-)s together to the other?
 

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Do you happen to remember which one was positive on your setup? Red or blue? Did you pair both white and grey (+)s together to one and both white and grey (-)s together to the other?
I don't remember the polarity but read elsewhere on the forum that blue is positive. The good news is the polarity is switchable on the amp.

I think we only connected to one pair of inputs, since it's a single signal. In my mind I would think wiring to both makes the most sense but I had professional help and went with their advice. Since you'll be tuning the sub anyway you will adjust the gain and crossover to where it sounds best for you whether you connect to one or both channels so the net result will be the same.

Edit: I was thinking about this and wanted to clarify the single vs doubled inputs. I don't believe it's running a two channel amp inside the sub since there is a single output. It would seem simple for it to sum the two inputs together before amplification. This would account for bass on the left channel and the right channel. We're already doing that with the factory sub output. So summing the same input twice is the same thing as doubling it, so you could be tuning a hotter input signal that would take you into clipping faster, and you'll have to compensate by lowering the gain so it doesn't clip. This could be totally wrong, as you would experience the same issue summing the left and right channel of a synthesized bass or a bass panned dead center in a recording. But I believe the end thinking is since you are feeding it a dedicated sub signal you don't need to use the kicker's amp to do that part of the processing.
 

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I don't remember the polarity but read elsewhere on the forum that blue is positive. The good news is the polarity is switchable on the amp.

I think we only connected to one pair of inputs, since it's a single signal. In my mind I would think wiring to both makes the most sense but I had professional help and went with their advice. Since you'll be tuning the sub anyway you will adjust the gain and crossover to where it sounds best for you whether you connect to one or both channels so the net result will be the same.

Edit: I was thinking about this and wanted to clarify the single vs doubled inputs. I don't believe it's running a two channel amp inside the sub since there is a single output. It would seem simple for it to sum the two inputs together before amplification. This would account for bass on the left channel and the right channel. We're already doing that with the factory sub output. So summing the same input twice is the same thing as doubling it, so you could be tuning a hotter input signal that would take you into clipping faster, and you'll have to compensate by lowering the gain so it doesn't clip. This could be totally wrong, as you would experience the same issue summing the left and right channel of a synthesized bass or a bass panned dead center in a recording. But I believe the end thinking is since you are feeding it a dedicated sub signal you don't need to use the kicker's amp to do that part of the processing.
I don't think you would want to tie both outputs from you audio system together. That would end up putting the left and right speakers together and you might also blow out the left and right power amplifiers in your audio system. Tying the two speakers leads together would also lead to cancellation of some signals. That would make your left and right speakers sound bad and the subwoofer would also sound bad.
 
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