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I think that would be OK. The Kicker box uses some sort of bridge to tie the left and right channels together, so that a single audio stream is fed to the mono amp.

Clint
AZ
 

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Do NOT combine the + and -



Correct.

The Kicker manual shows how it should be wired:
View attachment 5593

Very logical for the non-Limited models.

However in the case of the Limited which only has a mono signal (no left or right) then both right and left Kicker inputs need the same signal. So white and grey (+) are connected to the factory + then white/black and grey/black (-) go to the factory -

I just need to find a wiring diagram with all factory colors to know which is the + and - for each speaker. And yes somewhere in the B pillar will be wiring going to the rear doors for the non-Limited.
From another post a user stated blue was positive. I wired + to blue and - to red. The sub offered better bass response in the phase 0 position so I feel that blue was indeed +.
 

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You need to remove the entire backseat if you place the sub there. So running speaker wires to either side is equally as easy. I timed it, and from the moment I opened my box to having the seat completely out was only 35 min and that including time spent figuring out what bolts and how. Follow my post with removal steps and photos and you can get the seat out in less than 20 min easy.
I just ordered the Kicker HS10 from Crutchfield. Seems like everyone has the same price at $369, but it was $349 from Amazon earlier this week. How do you remove the trim pieces to get at the wiring for the left and right rear speakers? In your statement - "remove the entire rear seat", I assume you mean remove the entire rear seat on the driver's side. I do not plan on removing the plastic storage pan in the bottom.

Clint
AZ
 

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I just ordered the Kicker HS10 from Crutchfield. Seems like everyone has the same price at $369, but it was $349 from Amazon earlier this week. How do you remove the trim pieces to get at the wiring for the left and right rear speakers? In your statement - "remove the entire rear seat", I assume you mean remove the entire rear seat on the driver's side. I do not plan on removing the plastic storage pan in the bottom.

Clint
AZ
I removed the whole rear seat as two peices, first the bench, then the back, i also removed the storage tub just to give myself room to sit back there and do the wiring. I used the stock Bose sub harness so I did not need to remove any trim peices.
 

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See my post here;

 

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I removed the whole rear seat as two oeices, first the bench, then the back, i also removed the storage tub just to give myself room to sit back there and do the wiring. I used the stock Bose sub harness so I did not need to remove any trim peices.
I think I saw a Youtube video where someone removed the actual audio head in the front and tapped across the speaker wires at that location. Not sure which location would be the easiest.

Clint
AZ
 

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I think I saw a Youtube video where someone removed the actual audio head in the front and tapped across the speaker wires at that location. Not sure which location would be the easiest.

Clint
AZ
I would not want to take apart the dash, did that once in a Nissan Rogue and it was awfull lol. So many peices were interconnected.
 

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This is getting pretty deep. I hope the installs been working so far for you guys. For the record on my install, both my (left and right) wires from the subs are tapped into the black and yellow twisted pair in my drivers column. You’ll need to cut the tape to see the wires. But my subs been working fine since. Also have the sel premium so non Bose.
 

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I have an SEL with the NON-Bose stereo. I'm looking to add a small powered sub under the passenger seat. I'm debating between an Alpine, Kenwood or Kicker if I'm able to install it myself. Has anyone added one yet? I'm wondering if there are rca inputs available on the stereo. Thirty years ago I installed subs/amps in my vehicles all the time. I'm not sure how much may have changed, but don't want to risk damaging anything with all of the tech these days.
If I end up having it professionally installed, I would likely go with Phoenix Gold.

I'd appreciate any feedback y'all may have.
Thanks!
Today, I received my Kicker HS-10 subwoofer. The unit was very heavy. The die cast aluminum box is very thick - that is good for heat removal. I am a retired RF electronics engineer, so I always like to see what is inside boxes. I removed the lid to the unit. The physical design and construction is impressive. There are 7 each 5/32" allen bolts that need to be removed. I did not see any warranty labels across the two halves of the box. I noticed a label on the outside that said the box was made in China. The top half of the box (with the speaker) separates from the bottom half. There is a thick rubber gasket all away around between the two halves. Not much in the box - the speaker, the control board and I assume the power amp board. The heads of the screws on the control board are sealed with some black hard sealant. The speaker has a large magnet - about 5" OD and 1" thick. Please see my attached pictures.

Clint
AZ
 

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I removed the whole rear seat as two peices, first the bench, then the back, i also removed the storage tub just to give myself room to sit back there and do the wiring. I used the stock Bose sub harness so I did not need to remove any trim peices.
Which option did you use for turning on the box - +12V or DC? The DC option would be more convenient for me. I measured less than 2 ma of current draw with this option, when the box is not receiving a signal. With the +12V option, the box draws about 200 ma when DC power is applied to the box.

Clint
AZ
 

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Thanks for opening it up... it appears they are using the enclosure itself as a heat sink - that's some sound engineering (sorry for the pun).
 

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I have an SEL with the NON-Bose stereo. I'm looking to add a small powered sub under the passenger seat. I'm debating between an Alpine, Kenwood or Kicker if I'm able to install it myself. Has anyone added one yet? I'm wondering if there are rca inputs available on the stereo. Thirty years ago I installed subs/amps in my vehicles all the time. I'm not sure how much may have changed, but don't want to risk damaging anything with all of the tech these days.
If I end up having it professionally installed, I would likely go with Phoenix Gold.

I'd appreciate any feedback y'all may have.
Thanks!
I just completed the install of a Kicker Hideaway HS10 in my Santa Cruz. I mounted the subwoofer to the rear wall of the cab, using two existing bolts that were designed for mounting the Bose subwoofer. My SC is the non-Bose model. Dave from Unique Auto Sound installed the wiring ($150). He does world class work. I am glad that I opted to not try to pull the trim panels myself, but now I feel comfortable in doing that after watching Dave. The install took about 90 minutes, but we probably spent about 30 minutes talking about various audio topics. This was a first install for Dave on a Santa Cruz. I would imagine it would only take him no more than 30 minutes for future SC installs. Dave said he has done about 4000 car audio installs over the past 2 years. Please see attached pictures of my install. The improvement in the audio sound is the difference between night and day. The remote Bass control comes in vary handy for adjusting the bass volume, depending upon what song you are listening to. Listen to some Roy Orbison songs if you need some test songs with low bass. I find that the stock audio head has adequate sound volume for my listening habits.

Dave said that a center channel speaker could be installed if one installs an external amp. The speaker grill is already on the dash.

After the install, I played back some 35 Hz test tones at high volume. There is a slight self-resonance on the enclosure of the HS10. I could have installed a one piece mounting plate for the HS10, but I don't think the self resonance will be a problem - I will never be playing continuous low frequency tones at a high volume. If my mount had been more rigid, I might have discovered that the entire rear wall cab sheet metal would have vibrated.

We used the speaker wire color code chart that is in an earlier post on this forum. I used Velcro to attach the Remote Bass Control to the bottom of the driver side instrument panel.
Now I will need to spend about one hour putting the rear seat back in.

Clint
AZ
 

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I just completed the install of a Kicker Hideaway HS10 in my Santa Cruz. I mounted the subwoofer to the rear wall of the cab, using two existing bolts that were designed for mounting the Bose subwoofer. My SC is the non-Bose model. Dave from Unique Auto Sound installed the wiring ($150). He does world class work. I am glad that I opted to not try to pull the trim panels myself, but now I feel comfortable in doing that after watching Dave. The install took about 90 minutes, but we probably spent about 30 minutes talking about various audio topics. This was a first install for Dave on a Santa Cruz. I would imagine it would only take him no more than 30 minutes for future SC installs. Dave said he has done about 4000 car audio installs over the past 2 years. Please see attached pictures of my install. The improvement in the audio sound is the difference between night and day. The remote Bass control comes in vary handy for adjusting the bass volume, depending upon what song you are listening to. Listen to some Roy Orbison songs if you need some test songs with low bass. I find that the stock audio head has adequate sound volume for my listening habits.

Dave said that a center channel speaker could be installed if one installs an external amp. The speaker grill is already on the dash.

After the install, I played back some 35 Hz test tones at high volume. There is a slight self-resonance on the enclosure of the HS10. I could have installed a one piece mounting plate for the HS10, but I don't think the self resonance will be a problem - I will never be playing continuous low frequency tones at a high volume. If my mount had been more rigid, I might have discovered that the entire rear wall cab sheet metal would have vibrated.

We used the speaker wire color code chart that is in an earlier post on this forum. I used Velcro to attach the Remote Bass Control to the bottom of the driver side instrument panel.
Now I will need to spend about one hour putting the rear seat back in.

Clint
AZ
I was able to get a low price on a piece of 12" x 48" x 0.2" aluminum plate ($33), so I decided to use that to mount my Kicker. I cut a piece 12" x 21". Also had to do some cutouts to allow for the bulges on the back cab wall. With the plate, I was able to get rid of the self-resonances. Got my rear seat re-installed and everything sounds great.

Clint
AZ
 

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I was able to get a low price on a piece of 12" x 48" x 0.2" aluminum plate ($33), so I decided to use that to mount my Kicker. I cut a piece 12" x 21". Also had to do some cutouts to allow for the bulges on the back cab wall. With the plate, I was able to get rid of the self-resonances. Got my rear seat re-installed and everything sounds great.

Clint
AZ
I used a plastic cutting board to use
 
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