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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After a long backorder wait my Curt trailer hitch finally arrived in a strong sturdy box.
Shipping box Wood Rectangle Shelving Floor

It looks beautiful as ever and not a scratch on it. It's a super hefty nicely built hitch rated for 5,000lb towing and 750lb tongue weight. Delivery included instruction sheet and bolts.
Bicycle part Bumper Musical instrument accessory Automotive exterior Wood

Backed my SC halfway into the garage and laid a blanket on the cement to crawl around on.
Car Wheel Vehicle Tire Hood

Crawled under the SC to inspect the mounting points after removing the spare tire (didn't even need to jack it up at all). There are three threaded inserts on each side in the unibody rails specifically for the hitch mounting bolts. The drivers side is open and easily accessible.
Wheel Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire

The passenger side mounting points are above the muffler and a bit harder to get to.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting

After seeing what I was dealing with it looked like the easiest thing to do was put a rag on top of the muffler and slide that side of the hitch into place WITHOUT removing the muffler hangers; resting that side on the rag covered muffler.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting

That worked out so well, I thought if I can do the same to the other side, I could just thread all the bolts into the drivers side by hand. This is where the study shipping box caught my eye. It looked about the right height to rest it on prior to repositioning myself to lift that last little bit with one hand and thread the bolts in with the other.
Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle

After putting a dab of bolt thread anti-seize on each bolt they all screwed in by hand with a little shifting here and there of the hitch with my other hand. My SC didn't need the threads on the inserts cleaned out at all, they were clean and smooth. I did tie back some of the wiring harness to keep it out of the way with a small piece of rope.
Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Here you can see the hitch screwed on with the passenger side still simply resting on top of the rag covered muffler. I loosely tightened all three bolts to the point the hitch can still move around easily.
Light Motor vehicle Machine Gas Space

Next I put the spare and a couple seat cusions under the muffler for support before removing the hangers.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Tread

I sprayed a little white lithium gease on all three hanger tips, but it probably isn't needed because all the rubber is so new and supple.
Finger Circuit component Nail Drink Gadget

Slid off the rear most hanger first using a standard screw driver between the rubber and the muffler to get it started, and my other hand assisting the rubber movement.
Automotive tire Hood Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive exhaust

Next I removed the hanger just behind the passenger rear tire by hand (no tools).
Automotive tire Rim Motor vehicle Fluid Carbon

And finally the hanger at the center of the vehicle, again completely by hand.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting

At this point the muffler was resting on the seat cushions. I held the muffler with one hand and slowly slide one of the seat cushions out allowing the muffler and hitch to move downward slightly. IIRC the hitch hung slightly higher than the muffler with its' weight supported by the three bolts on the drivers side (or at least most of it's weight).

That was enough working space to reposition; again using one hand to lift the hitch up and the other to thread in the first forward most bolt on the side of the unibody frame rail. Once started that held the hitch up. From there it was just a matter of shifting the hitch around to thread the other two bolts by hand. All my bolts seemed to thread in easily by hand with shifting of the hitch. Putting a socket on the bolt-head gives you a larger diameter to grab and turn with your fingers once already started

The final step to mounting the hitch was tightening up all the bolts as eveningly as possible. Try to get them all equally threaded so the hitch moves a little bit. Shift the hitch backwards as far as it will go (direction of the trailer pulling on it), then slowly go from bolt to bolt tightenning them a little at a time so all the surfaces can shift into place eveningly.

Once eveningly snugged up, it's time to torque the bolts up...

NOTE: My Curt installation instructions stated 86ftlb, but as someone here pointed out the Hyundai hitch installation instructions state 68ftlb, so I'd recommend using the Hyundai torque specification of 68ftlb. You can always go tighter if Hyundai changes theirs.

Once torqued I lifted the muffler back up and reinstalled the cushion I had removed, then reinstalled each muffler hanger by hand without any tools. Lastly the spare was restalled on the cable and tightenned up into place.

Hitch installation complete!
Tire Wheel Automotive tail & brake light Land vehicle Vehicle

The end of the Curt hitch sits in from the rear bumper so you will not hit you leg on it. Using the Curt #57204 short mounting bracket the 4-Way & 7-Way Dual-Function Curt #57672 adapter sits 2" further back than the end of the hitch itself.
Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Rolling Gas

I like this "Dual-Function" setup because I have a rear light bar that is plug-n-play for a 4-Way trailer light plug. This way I can remove the 4-Way on the mount and run it to the light bar tucked up out of sight. The 7-Way can be used with any 7-Way to 4-Way adapter if the trailer only has a 4-Way and I retain my light bar function. If you don't have or want a light bar, then you won't need a 7-Way to 4-Way adapter to run either type of trailer wiring with this setup.

NOTE: There are wires for running trailer brakes that "I HAVE NOT CONNECTED YET." They can be used with a wireless controller or professionally wired into the Hyundai system for a hardwired under dash controller. Everything this DIYer used to this point of operation is plug-n-play. I repeat, there is NO TRAILER BRAKE WIRING CONNECTED; just a 4-Way and 7-Way plug that can tow either plug WITHOUT TRAILER BRAKES.

This is all "I" need at this time. When/if I get a 1,600lb+ trailer with electric brakes (current California weight requirement for trailer brakes), I will address the additional wiring at that time. It's nice to know everything is in place and all ready for that in the future.

I hope this helps some of the DIYer's out there. If you are not mechanically inclined or this seems overwelming to you, then simply have a qualified installer do it. U-Haul seems to have reasonable prices and obviously experience in trailer hitch installations, but I'm sure there are many other sources out there (including the Hyundai dealer if yours is willing). Some dealers simply farm this out and won't do it. Others will happily install their factory hitch for a price.

Good luck all and happy travels!
 

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@HSC4ME I am still waiting for my Curt hitch to be dropped shipped that I purchased from Summit Racing a few weeks ago. Question... is removing the spare tire necessary for install or is removal needed to add more clearance to maneuver around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@HSC4ME I am still waiting for my Curt hitch to be dropped shipped that I purchased from Summit Racing a few weeks ago. Question... is removing the spare tire necessary for install or is removal needed to add more clearance to maneuver around?
I think you will need to remove the spare. I just used a socket on the lowering nut behind the bumper from underneath without removing the little plastic twist cover on the outside of the bumper. It takes a little longer with a socket than it would with a spin wrench through the hole to lower it, but that way I didn't have to dig out the wrench that I assume is with the jack under the rear seat.
 

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Thank you for showing how easy this is.

I know many were worried about the muffler hanger tool, but as you showed its not necessary. With a new vehicle everything is clean and the rubber soft - so it shouldn't put up a fight. The longer you wait to the do the install the more difficult it will be since the bolt threads will start collecting dirt / grime and need to be cleaned out as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
While I was under there I measured the distance from the rear bumper to the cross bar that the third muffler hanger is near (the spare tire area). It appears a 28" spare can fit under there. Too bad it's not 30" so a full size spare would fit.

I did come across this spare tire tank designed for Toyota's.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Rim

Offroading | Trailedonline | United States

Their site says it has a 29" diameter, but I can see that diameter is cut short on two oposite sides, so it may actually fit. I believe this can be used for water or gasoline and they are stackable at 3" thick each. Might make a nice emergency water/fuel tank for someone adventurizing their rig. Getting that weight down low is a good thing.
 

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After a long backorder wait my Curt trailer hitch finally arrived in a strong sturdy box.
View attachment 4731
It looks beautiful as ever and not a scratch on it. It's a super hefty nicely built hitch rated for 5,000lb towing and 750lb tongue weight. Delivery included instruction sheet and bolts.
View attachment 4732
Backed my SC halfway into the garage and laid a blanket on the cement to crawl around on.
View attachment 4733
Crawled under the SC to inspect the mounting points after removing the spare tire (didn't even need to jack it up at all). There are three threaded inserts on each side in the unibody rails specifically for the hitch mounting bolts. The drivers side is open and easily accessible.
View attachment 4734
The passenger side mounting points are above the muffler and a bit harder to get to.
View attachment 4735
After seeing what I was dealing with it looked like the easiest thing to do was put a rag on top of the muffler and slide that side of the hitch into place WITHOUT removing the muffler hangers; resting that side on the rag covered muffler.
View attachment 4736
That worked out so well, I thought if I can do the same to the other side, I could just thread all the bolts into the drivers side by hand. This is where the study shipping box caught my eye. It looked about the right height to rest it on prior to repositioning myself to lift that last little bit with one hand and thread the bolts in with the other.
View attachment 4737
After putting a dab of bolt thread anti-seize on each bolt they all screwed in by hand with a little shifting here and there of the hitch with my other hand. My SC didn't need the threads on the inserts cleaned out at all, they were clean and smooth. I did tie back some of the wiring harness to keep it out of the way with a small piece of rope.
View attachment 4747
Great write up. Thanks for sharing.
 

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I wished I read this before installing my curt hitch this pass Friday. Everything went pretty smooth for me till torquing the rear horizontal bolt in the passenger side. That bolt required a wobble adapter and I couldn't get to the 86 ft lbs that curt recommended because the socket just kept slipping. I know it's at least 68ft lbs so I guess I should be good but would've probably just torque all bolts at 68ft lbs if I read this post first. Lol. Thank you, great write up. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I wished I read this before installing my curt hitch this pass Friday. Everything went pretty smooth for me till torquing the rear horizontal bolt in the passenger side. That bolt required a wobble adapter and I couldn't get to the 86 ft lbs that curt recommended because the socket just kept slipping. I know it's at least 68ft lbs so I guess I should be good but would've probably just torque all bolts at 68ft lbs if I read this post first. Lol. Thank you, great write up. 👍
FWIW mine are torqued to 86lbs as well, because I didn't read the Hyundai hitch installation instructions that others posted here until afterwards. I can't say if one is right and the other is wrong, but the Hyundai printed instructions specifically say not to over torque their bolts/washers. I also don't know what type of washers the Hyundai factory hitch uses. Hopefully they are not simply flat washers.

I used the Curt hitch instructions and my knowledge of what a bolt/nut/insert that size should be able to tolerate, plus the slightly coned lockwashers with feet grabers Curt supplied may need what they state for best results and grab (?).

Like you, that one passenger side bolt took some doing and a long extension to get it torqued. I can't imagine 86lbs being too much if Hyundai used quality unibody inserts. Mine are on there and never coming off now.

I only stated to use the Hyundai torque specifications to be safe until the proper specifications can be determined. Like I stated, you can always go tighter if more accurate knowledge comes to light over time. It does make you wonder what the professional hitch installers are doing... 🤔
 

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It does make you wonder what the professional hitch installers are doing... 🤔
U-haul? I doubt they are using a torque wrench. The dealership? More likely.

Either way I doubt there is much real world difference between 68 and 86 for this particular application - this is not something like head bolts going or brake calipers. Think of how important your wheels are and how much load is placed on them? Then think about many people actually torque lug nuts properly. I am amazed we don't see wheels coming off or are always dealing with constantly snapped wheels studs from impact guns. Truth is the engineering on such things includes a wide margin for error. Typical torque wrenches themselves have a tolerance of 5%
 

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Curt #57204
Here you can see the hitch screwed on with the passenger side still simply resting on top of the rag covered muffler. I loosely tightened all three bolts to the point the hitch can still move around easily.
View attachment 4739
Next I put the spare and a couple seat cusions under the muffler for support before removing the hangers.
View attachment 4740
I sprayed a little white lithium gease on all three hanger tips, but it probably isn't needed because all the rubber is so new and supple.
View attachment 4741
Slid off the rear most hanger first using a standard screw driver between the rubber and the muffler to get it started, and my other hand assisting the rubber movement.
View attachment 4742
Next I removed the hanger just behind the passenger rear tire by hand (no tools).
View attachment 4743
And finally the hanger at the center of the vehicle, again completely by hand.
View attachment 4744
At this point the muffler was resting on the seat cushions. I held the muffler with one hand and slowly slide one of the seat cushions out allowing the muffler and hitch to move downward slightly. IIRC the hitch hung slightly higher than the muffler with its' weight supported by the three bolts on the drivers side (or at least most of it's weight).

That was enough working space to reposition; again using one hand to lift the hitch up and the other to thread in the first forward most bolt on the side of the unibody frame rail. Once started that held the hitch up. From there it was just a matter of shifting the hitch around to thread the other two bolts by hand. All my bolts seemed to thread in easily by hand with shifting of the hitch. Putting a socket on the bolt-head gives you a larger diameter to grab and turn with your fingers once already started

The final step to mounting the hitch was tightening up all the bolts as eveningly as possible. Try to get them all equally threaded so the hitch moves a little bit. Shift the hitch backwards as far as it will go (direction of the trailer pulling on it), then slowly go from bolt to bolt tightenning them a little at a time so all the surfaces can shift into place eveningly.

Once eveningly snugged up, it's time to torque the bolts up...

NOTE: My Curt installation instructions stated 86ftlb, but as someone here pointed out the Hyundai hitch installation instructions state 68ftlb, so I'd recommend using the Hyundai torque specification of 68ftlb. You can always go tighter if Hyundai changes theirs.

Once torqued I lifted the muffler back up and reinstalled the cushion I had removed, then reinstalled each muffler hanger by hand without any tools. Lastly the spare was restalled on the cable and tightenned up into place.

Hitch installation complete!
View attachment 4745
The end of the Curt hitch sits in from the rear bumper so you will not hit you leg on it. Using the Curt #57204 short mounting bracket the 4-Way & 7-Way Dual-Function Curt #57672 adapter sits 2" further back than the end of the hitch itself.
View attachment 4746
I like this "Dual-Function" setup because I have a rear light bar that is plug-n-play for a 4-Way trailer light plug. This way I can remove the 4-Way on the mount and run it to the light bar tucked up out of sight. The 7-Way can be used with any 7-Way to 4-Way adapter if the trailer only has a 4-Way and I retain my light bar function. If you don't have or want a light bar, then you won't need a 7-Way to 4-Way adapter to run either type of trailer wiring with this setup.

NOTE: There are wires for running trailer brakes that "I HAVE NOT CONNECTED YET." They can be used with a wireless controller or professionally wired into the Hyundai system for a hardwired under dash controller. Everything this DIYer used to this point of operation is plug-n-play. I repeat, there is NO TRAILER BRAKE WIRING CONNECTED; just a 4-Way and 7-Way plug that can tow either plug WITHOUT TRAILER BRAKES.

This is all "I" need at this time. When/if I get a 1,600lb+ trailer with electric brakes (current California weight requirement for trailer brakes), I will address the additional wiring at that time. It's nice to know everything is in place and all ready for that in the future.

I hope this helps some of the DIYer's out there. If you are not mechanically inclined or this seems overwelming to you, then simply have a qualified installer do it. U-Haul seems to have reasonable prices and obviously experience in trailer hitch installations, but I'm sure there are many other sources out there (including the Hyundai dealer if yours is willing). Some dealers simply farm this out and won't do it. Others will happily install their factory hitch for a price.

Good luck all and happy travels!
I paid a guy at a local truck accessory store to install a hitch and 4-pin connector but he did not mount the connector. This outfit company is supposed to be professional and to say I was unhappy considering what I paid him to install this thing is an understatement. He's going to make it right but it looks like I will need to provide him with specific part numbers and instructions. He kept going on about there was no where to mount it. I have the curt hitch and the curt 4 pin connector.

Can one of you good people tell me what else I need to mount the connector? @HSC4ME I see where you mentioned Curt part number 57204. How did you attach it to the SC?

Although it will require drilling, for the 4-pin connector it looks like all I need is the part at the link below.

 

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After a long backorder wait my Curt trailer hitch finally arrived in a strong sturdy box.
View attachment 4731
It looks beautiful as ever and not a scratch on it. It's a super hefty nicely built hitch rated for 5,000lb towing and 750lb tongue weight. Delivery included instruction sheet and bolts.
View attachment 4732
Backed my SC halfway into the garage and laid a blanket on the cement to crawl around on.
View attachment 4733
Crawled under the SC to inspect the mounting points after removing the spare tire (didn't even need to jack it up at all). There are three threaded inserts on each side in the unibody rails specifically for the hitch mounting bolts. The drivers side is open and easily accessible.
View attachment 4734
The passenger side mounting points are above the muffler and a bit harder to get to.
View attachment 4735
After seeing what I was dealing with it looked like the easiest thing to do was put a rag on top of the muffler and slide that side of the hitch into place WITHOUT removing the muffler hangers; resting that side on the rag covered muffler.
View attachment 4736
That worked out so well, I thought if I can do the same to the other side, I could just thread all the bolts into the drivers side by hand. This is where the study shipping box caught my eye. It looked about the right height to rest it on prior to repositioning myself to lift that last little bit with one hand and thread the bolts in with the other.
View attachment 4737
After putting a dab of bolt thread anti-seize on each bolt they all screwed in by hand with a little shifting here and there of the hitch with my other hand. My SC didn't need the threads on the inserts cleaned out at all, they were clean and smooth. I did tie back some of the wiring harness to keep it out of the way with a small piece of rope.
View attachment 4747
Thankyou so much! I may have missed it but if not, would you please share the specs of this hitch.
 

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Thankyou so much! I may have missed it but if not, would you please share the specs of this hitch.
I think the only thing he didn't mention is that it is a 2" receiver. The 5000 lbs tow, 750 lbs tongue capacity were mentioned.

Tips of advice for people new to hitch install- you don't want to lift your vehicle any higher than you must, because then you have to lift the hitch higher. Jack stands or a jack are your friend if you are doing it solo to help position and support the hitch.
 

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Here you can see the hitch screwed on with the passenger side still simply resting on top of the rag covered muffler. I loosely tightened all three bolts to the point the hitch can still move around easily.
View attachment 4739
Next I put the spare and a couple seat cusions under the muffler for support before removing the hangers.
View attachment 4740
I sprayed a little white lithium gease on all three hanger tips, but it probably isn't needed because all the rubber is so new and supple.
View attachment 4741
Slid off the rear most hanger first using a standard screw driver between the rubber and the muffler to get it started, and my other hand assisting the rubber movement.
View attachment 4742
Next I removed the hanger just behind the passenger rear tire by hand (no tools).
View attachment 4743
And finally the hanger at the center of the vehicle, again completely by hand.
View attachment 4744
At this point the muffler was resting on the seat cushions. I held the muffler with one hand and slowly slide one of the seat cushions out allowing the muffler and hitch to move downward slightly. IIRC the hitch hung slightly higher than the muffler with its' weight supported by the three bolts on the drivers side (or at least most of it's weight).

That was enough working space to reposition; again using one hand to lift the hitch up and the other to thread in the first forward most bolt on the side of the unibody frame rail. Once started that held the hitch up. From there it was just a matter of shifting the hitch around to thread the other two bolts by hand. All my bolts seemed to thread in easily by hand with shifting of the hitch. Putting a socket on the bolt-head gives you a larger diameter to grab and turn with your fingers once already started

The final step to mounting the hitch was tightening up all the bolts as eveningly as possible. Try to get them all equally threaded so the hitch moves a little bit. Shift the hitch backwards as far as it will go (direction of the trailer pulling on it), then slowly go from bolt to bolt tightenning them a little at a time so all the surfaces can shift into place eveningly.

Once eveningly snugged up, it's time to torque the bolts up...

NOTE: My Curt installation instructions stated 86ftlb, but as someone here pointed out the Hyundai hitch installation instructions state 68ftlb, so I'd recommend using the Hyundai torque specification of 68ftlb. You can always go tighter if Hyundai changes theirs.

Once torqued I lifted the muffler back up and reinstalled the cushion I had removed, then reinstalled each muffler hanger by hand without any tools. Lastly the spare was restalled on the cable and tightenned up into place.

Hitch installation complete!
View attachment 4745
The end of the Curt hitch sits in from the rear bumper so you will not hit you leg on it. Using the Curt #57204 short mounting bracket the 4-Way & 7-Way Dual-Function Curt #57672 adapter sits 2" further back than the end of the hitch itself.
View attachment 4746
I like this "Dual-Function" setup because I have a rear light bar that is plug-n-play for a 4-Way trailer light plug. This way I can remove the 4-Way on the mount and run it to the light bar tucked up out of sight. The 7-Way can be used with any 7-Way to 4-Way adapter if the trailer only has a 4-Way and I retain my light bar function. If you don't have or want a light bar, then you won't need a 7-Way to 4-Way adapter to run either type of trailer wiring with this setup.

NOTE: There are wires for running trailer brakes that "I HAVE NOT CONNECTED YET." They can be used with a wireless controller or professionally wired into the Hyundai system for a hardwired under dash controller. Everything this DIYer used to this point of operation is plug-n-play. I repeat, there is NO TRAILER BRAKE WIRING CONNECTED; just a 4-Way and 7-Way plug that can tow either plug WITHOUT TRAILER BRAKES.

This is all "I" need at this time. When/if I get a 1,600lb+ trailer with electric brakes (current California weight requirement for trailer brakes), I will address the additional wiring at that time. It's nice to know everything is in place and all ready for that in the future.

I hope this helps some of the DIYer's out there. If you are not mechanically inclined or this seems overwelming to you, then simply have a qualified installer do it. U-Haul seems to have reasonable prices and obviously experience in trailer hitch installations, but I'm sure there are many other sources out there (including the Hyundai dealer if yours is willing). Some dealers simply farm this out and won't do it. Others will happily install their factory hitch for a price.

Good luck all and happy travels!
I'm curious about the wiring...I'm assuming you got a plug and play 4 way and then added the Dual Function? Was there any additional wiring or splicing that needed to be done or was it all plug and play?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm curious about the wiring...I'm assuming you got a plug and play 4 way and then added the Dual Function? Was there any additional wiring or splicing that needed to be done or was it all plug and play?
To get a dual-function plug you have to tap into a few wires for the additional 7-Way if using a 4-Way plugged into the factory Hyundai plug. All the details for that are in this 48" Light Bar thread.

To get a dual function plug using the factory Hyundai or now available Curt 7-Way plug you still have to tap into even more wires on the 7-Way to add the 4-Way.

Hopefully Hyundai, Curt, Hopkins or someone else will eventually come out with a simple plug and play dual-function, but I'm not aware of any at this time.
 
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