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DCT putting in N while waiting for red light?

2767 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  modshack
For the non-turbo version SC, the automatic transmission has torque converter, which is not a "hard" connection, and the kinetic energy of engine idling is just going to turn into heat and absorbed by the fluid in the torque converter if you keep the shifter in D and foot on the brake (or auto hold). Nothing is going to wear and maybe just a little bit of transmission fluid temperature rise.

But the Turbo DCT, which I assume will just use the wet-clutch to "disconnect" the engine output and the transmission.
If I compare the DCT similar to a manual transmission, keeping the shifter in D and foot on the brake in DCT is equivalent to shifting into the 1st gear and clutching in and foot on the brake for manual transmission.

Well, it's not recommended to keep clutching in for extended time in a manual transmission. Does the same logic apply to DCT then? and we should shift to N while waiting for red lights? Some lights in my area some can be as long as 2 minutes
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I don’t see the point, DCT is in neutral when you’re stopped. Clutch is disengaged, why you start to roll on slopes when you lift.
I don’t see the point, DCT is in neutral when you’re stopped. Clutch is disengaged, why you start to roll on slopes when you lift.
So in other words, even if the shifter is in D, at standstill, the DCT actually puts itself in N the same way in a manual trans with clutch disengaged and shifter in neutral (idling engine crankshaft still connected to the transmission spinning the gears inside, but the spinning gears are not connected with the drive shafts so no power to the wheels)
in this case yeah, no point worrying too much about it.
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So in other words, even if the shifter is in D, at standstill, the DCT actually puts itself in N the same way in a manual trans with clutch disengaged and shifter in neutral (idling engine crankshaft still connected to the transmission spinning the gears inside, but the spinning gears are not connected with the drive shafts so no power to the wheels)
in this case yeah, no point worrying too much about it.
Ya, nothing to worry about.
if it stayed engaged, my old Dry DCT would over heat and not just at crawl mode….
I wish the SC has a transmission temperature gauge (I haven’t found it if it does) My Dry DCT use to have it, as I was able to monitor the temp when ever crawling along.
Ya, nothing to worry about.
if it stayed engaged, my old Dry DCT would over heat and not just at crawl mode….
I wish the SC has a transmission temperature gauge (I haven’t found it if it does) My Dry DCT use to have it, as I was able to monitor the temp when ever crawling along.
SC doesn't, in fact, many key stats like 12v battery voltage, oil pressure, boost psi aren't even displayed. I get it that the analog instrument cluster will look very busy with so many dials and most people wouldn't need to know, but there's really no excuse not to display that in pageable digital instrument cluster where the driver can scroll through the measurements
For the non-turbo version SC, the automatic transmission has torque converter, which is not a "hard" connection, and the kinetic energy of engine idling is just going to turn into heat and absorbed by the fluid in the torque converter if you keep the shifter in D and foot on the brake (or auto hold). Nothing is going to wear and maybe just a little bit of transmission fluid temperature rise.

But the Turbo DCT, which I assume will just use the wet-clutch to "disconnect" the engine output and the transmission.
If I compare the DCT similar to a manual transmission, keeping the shifter in D and foot on the brake in DCT is equivalent to shifting into the 1st gear and clutching in and foot on the brake for manual transmission.

Well, it's not recommended to keep clutching in for extended time in a manual transmission. Does the same logic apply to DCT then? and we should shift to N while waiting for red lights? Some lights in my area some can be as long as 2 minutes
The wet clutch DCT in the SC uses hydraulic pressure to control the engagement and disengagement of both concentric clutches. In a manual transmission pressing the clutch activates a throw bearing that releases the clutch plates. Idling with the clutch in can cause excessive wear on the throw bearing, that’s why you use neutral.
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The wet clutch DCT in the SC uses hydraulic pressure to control the engagement and disengagement of both concentric clutches. In a manual transmission pressing the clutch activates a throw bearing that releases the clutch plates. Idling with the clutch in can cause excessive wear on the throw bearing, that’s why you use neutral.
Welcome to the forum - good to have another Canadian...
Well, it's not recommended to keep clutching in for extended time in a manual transmission. Does the same logic apply to DCT then? and we should shift to N while waiting for red lights? Some lights in my area some can be as long as 2 minutes
Have a watch...
5 Things You Should Never Do In A Dual Clutch Transmission Vehicle - answers your neutral clutch question in addition to other questions members might have.

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SC doesn't, in fact, many key stats like 12v battery voltage, oil pressure, boost psi aren't even displayed. I get it that the analog instrument cluster will look very busy with so many dials and most people wouldn't need to know, but there's really no excuse not to display that in pageable digital instrument cluster where the driver can scroll through the measurements
All that info is there, just not readable on the SC. My Veloster N can pull it all up in various screens, but it's a performance car. You can access all that info and have it displayed with a simple OBD plug in unit like a scan gauge. All that data is standardized through the OBD port.
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