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Limited Bose AND Kicker Hideaway HS10??

475 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by JMII, 16 d ago

CRUZ1N

Discussion Starter · 18 d ago

OK, I haven't done it yet, but I was just wondering if anyone has run BOTH subs? Rather than getting into the "why" I ask if can focus on the IF it can be done. Please reserve the why for another conversation.

Is it as simple as running the power and ground for the HS10 then tapping the signal wires from the Bose? I mentioned this to a friend and he was like, "You gotta take into account the impedance." So after some research I found these diagrams from Crutchfield. See attached.

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Automotive lighting Font Audio equipment Auto part Parallel

I didn't think the OEM amp supplied power to the Kicker esp since non-Bose owners tap into the door speakers and things work fine. That's why I figured just going to the sub signal wires would be OK.

So what do y'all think? Do I need to wire them in series/parallel for it to work? Or should I just do the first option of tapping the signal wires to get this to work right?

Thanks in advance.

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magshark

· #2 · 18 d ago

Huh? Are you trying to run aftermarket subs off of the bose amp? Or are you trying to run an aftermarket amp and subs off of high level input from the door speakers?

If you have a low level/RCA input and power you can use... Then get an amp and subs and wire them up... The resistance/impedience on the sub configuration only matters to the amp for power output and stability of the amp (some amps can only go to 2ohm or 4ohm).

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Boats

· #3 · 17 d ago

when I installed mine, I tapped the sub wires from the amp. Fed those to my amp as high level inputs. Works fine. The factory Bose sub is still installed, still fed a signal, and still just as useless (and inaudible). I put the aftermarket sub under the driver's side rear seat.

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rgcvik

· #4 · 17 d ago

CRUZ1N said:
OK, I haven't done it yet, but I was just wondering if anyone has run BOTH subs? Rather than getting into the "why" I ask if can focus on the IF it can be done. Please reserve the why for another conversation.

Is it as simple as running the power and ground for the HS10 then tapping the signal wires from the Bose? I mentioned this to a friend and he was like, "You gotta take into account the impedance." So after some research I found these diagrams from Crutchfield. See attached.
View attachment 19155 View attachment 19156

I didn't think the OEM amp supplied power to the Kicker esp since non-Bose owners tap into the door speakers and things work fine. That's why I figured just going to the sub signal wires would be OK.

So what do y'all think? Do I need to wire them in series/parallel for it to work? Or should I just do the first option of tapping the signal wires to get this to work right?

Thanks in advance.

Great post/question.
I'm following to get the feedback as well.
I've done several full installs, but never something like this.
Pictures of those who have done similar installs would be great.

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Reactions: 1

CRUZ1N

Discussion Starter · #5 · 16 d ago

magshark said:
Huh? Are you trying to run aftermarket subs off of the bose amp? Or are you trying to run an aftermarket amp and subs off of high level input from the door speakers?

If you have a low level/RCA input and power you can use... Then get an amp and subs and wire them up... The resistance/impedience on the sub configuration only matters to the amp for power output and stability of the amp (some amps can only go to 2ohm or 4ohm).

1) I have a Limted w/ the Bose sub and OEM amp.
2) I also have a Kicker HS10 self-powered sub.
3) The HS10 can and does run off the Bose mono amp signal wires. (Search the forum)
4) People here with the non-Bose (SE, SEL, SEL Premium) have run the HS10 sub by running power and ground then tapping the signal into door speaker wires. (Search the forum)
5) Based on this theory, I'm wondering that since the HS10 is self-powered--I don't think it pulls power from the OEM amp, just the signal kinda like the door speakers--will it be safe to tap said sub signal wires and run BOTH the Bose and the HS10 sub at the same time.
5) If it's NOT safe, how do I wire it up? Do I use one of the diagrams I supplied above?

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CRUZ1N

Discussion Starter · #6 · 16 d ago

Boats said:
when I installed mine, I tapped the sub wires from the amp. Fed those to my amp as high level inputs. Works fine. The factory Bose sub is still installed, still fed a signal, and still just as useless (and inaudible). I put the aftermarket sub under the driver's side rear seat.

Thanks for the reply.

So to be clear, you have the Kicker HS10, and just tapped those +/- signal wires to the corresponding red/blue wires of the Bose sub, ran power, ran ground, and it's all g2g? (Lol @ useless Bose sub comment haha)

Did you have to relocate the OEM sub amp? Isn't that under the driver's seat?

I guess we can now get into the "why" I'd like to do this. I got the HS10 because as we all agree, the Bose is lacking. Bose is not terrible, IMO, but it's also not that good. The HS10 is nice and punchy and has decent power after tuning, but it's missing the low-end reverb that the Bose actually did decently. I've seen others run two HS10s behind the seat but before going that route, I wanted to try and utilize the OEM Bose since I already have it. If I can get the reverb from the almost-useless Bose but the nice punch from the HS10, it's the best of both worlds and I won't have to spend any money lol. I plan to run it under the rear seat after ditching the storage tub but maybe I'll put it under the driver's seat, too.

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JMII

· #7 · 16 d ago

I assume with both subs (plus the door speakers) the upper bass region (100-150hz) is going to have a nasty peak. Maybe you like how that sounds but it is just throwing the whole system out of balance. An RTA read out with pink noise would confirm. If you go this route I would run HS10's crossover much lower to reduce the overlap in frequencies to reduce the peak. In theory with proper tuning you could use the HS10 as a true sub-woofer (<60Hz) while the OEM Bose just handles the upper bass.

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