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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just posted about DCT fluids. I’m contemplating rear diff and transfer case fluid. I have a JB4 in hand, I’m waiting to connect it till I have 1.5-1.8k miles At which time I want to change all my drivetrain fluids to the best available synthetic. I plan on using Redline 75w110 in the transfer case and rear diff To handle the additional HP/Trq Shock. I don’t care about fuel mileage, that’s why I changed the oil at 800 w Redline 5w30, an Ester based synthetic oil with generous amounts of zdp additives. Ecogard S11914 is a better oil filter than stock, defiantly do the Votex DP001 magnetic drain plug as well. Im contemplating adding the JB4 partway through the break in to not shock the engine at the OEM break in, I’m guessing of 4K miles, make sense? The JB4 map 1 increases the boost 4psi/91 octane on the 32mm turbo, turbo size is just a visual guess. Seriously, any opins wld be welcomed.
 

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I can see heavier weight in transfer case and diff, my Tacoma calls for 75w85, but others found out the best protection is 75w140, which is almost double the hot viscosity, and I agree the OEM recommend those for fleet mpg not the best protection.

I'm wondering why you opt for 5W30 instead of 0W30? redline makes that too and it's better for cold climate.
 

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I just posted about DCT fluids. I’m contemplating rear diff and transfer case fluid. I have a JB4 in hand, I’m waiting to connect it till I have 1.5-1.8k miles At which time I want to change all my drivetrain fluids to the best available synthetic. I plan on using Redline 75w110 in the transfer case and rear diff To handle the additional HP/Trq Shock. I don’t care about fuel mileage, that’s why I changed the oil at 800 w Redline 5w30, an Ester based synthetic oil with generous amounts of zdp additives. Ecogard S11914 is a better oil filter than stock, defiantly do the Votex DP001 magnetic drain plug as well. Im contemplating adding the JB4 partway through the break in to not shock the engine at the OEM break in, I’m guessing of 4K miles, make sense? The JB4 map 1 increases the boost 4psi/91 octane on the 32mm turbo, turbo size is just a visual guess. Seriously, any opins wld be welcomed.
Sounds like you know what you’re doin. Just about at that and doing my first oil change this weekend. With a little help from sold’s thread. Let us know what how the diff fluid looks at that mileage. It may sway me to do mine as well. Also how’d you figure out the other oil filters compatible?
 

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Sounds like you know what you’re doin. Just about at that and doing my first oil change this weekend. With a little help from sold’s thread. Let us know what how the diff fluid looks at that mileage. It may sway me to do mine as well. Also how’d you figure out the other oil filters compatible?
I'm going to do mine around 2k miles next week.
SC is primarily FWD only, I reckon that the rear diff most of the time is not under load so the conventional rule of 500 mile rear diff break-in period probably doesn't apply to SC AWD
I didn't off road at all with my SC so the only time the transfer case is in use is during low speed accelerations, it probably didn't get much work done either.

So I imagine the fluid won't be too bad, we'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I own the JB4 but I’m waiting to install it, I want to reach at min 1800 miles before I do. I want to purvey the install, I want to make sure it goes in and comes out clean in case I have factory warranty issues. That was one of my main questions, when is the best time to install a performance tune, do you wait till after 4K miles or do u do it midway break in, what’s best? I switched to redline 5w30 and used an ecogard synthetic filter At 800 miles. I also installed the votex dp001 magnetic oil plug as per soldthetaco. 0w30 is for federal fleet mileage requirements, 5w30 is nearly identical in its 40 and 100 Celsius viscositys but its the NOACk volatility that changes significantly. 0w30 is around 9 while 5w30 is around 6. again, Redline is Ester based, my Infiniti twin turbo calls for nissan Ester based oil, research ester based oil on bobs the oil guy. i use Redline but look up Amsoil(non ester based), it’s good oil, they have a nice comparative technical bulletin between the different viscositys of oil, you can do the same for redline as well, you just have to look each one up individually, Higher NOACK volatility oil is not good for turbos, the oil burn off can cake on the turbo shaft. im No expert but I try my best to figure things out by researching and asking questions. Ponder this, why does Hyundai recommend QUAKER STATE oil when QS does not even make a 0w30 oil, what’s oil is in your SC 2.5T from factory?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I agree With primary FWD until u lock the transfer case and paddle shift, henceforth I want the red line 75w110 to absorb the shock in the rear diff and transfer case, too me it only makes sense to run a mildly higher gear oil unless ur mpg senstative.
 

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You may want to install the JB4 and just make sure it seems to work. Another member installed his and it threw up warning lights all over the instrument display. Terry @ BMS sent him another JB4 to try. Thinking it could have been a bad board. But that member has been silent about it since then. So not sure if there is still an issue with the SC or the software. The install is easy enough to do to confirm if you have a working unit or not. If it works then you can take 10 minutes to uninstall it until you are ready to run it all the time.

Congrats on your purchase of the SC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I went out of town for a long weekend, I now have have 1.3k on the odometer. The only fuel mileage I observed was 24.7 driving 78mph at around 1.8k-2k rpm for 2 hours on the interstate going north w a strong sidewind from the west. Remember, I changed my oil to Redline 5w30, I’m happy w that fuel mileage knowing I have an ester based zdp fortified true synthetic oil that’s just a bit thicker w less NOACK voltality, especially with a good sized turbo and it’s still summer. I was impressed that my mechanic wanted to see my new SC last Friday AM along with inspecting my JB4 tuner prior to install. He first put my sc on a hoist to inspect the drivetrain, suspension and brakes, some things he was impressed with and others not. He liked the size of the brakes, rear shock design, solenoid controlled rear differential and wheel bearings, he felt the drivetrain was lacking ”stoutness”. I asked him to put his opinions in terms of what I can relate too which is my Inifiniti G37X coupe which is V6 AWD. I spent a lot of time wrenching on that car when I bought it new so I know it well. As far as the drivetrain, suspension and brakes in comparison to my G37X, the SC was not as heavy duty as the G, although they weigh about the same it was built more like, and I quote “a Rav or Crv”, quite disappointing but there is hope. The SC drivetrain will handle some additional hp and torque, my mechanic suggested around 200 additional max. The head on the 2.5T is substantial, the direct injection is at an opposite angle of the exhaust side which has an incorporated manifold. It appears that the injectors may disperse fuel onto the intake valves, keeping them cleaner, maybe why Hyundai recommends fuel treatment every 4K? He gave me the name of an exhaust professional who could potentially replace the resonator and muffler to make the sc sound more like a v6 than a 4 cylinder tuner, I will let u know what if I find out. The JB4 tune is scheduled for a trial install next week. By the way, I already purchased 75w110 gear oil for the rear diff and transfer case, I’m actually thinking about moving up to 75w140 because the sc holds about 2/3rds of a quart in each. Kinda sad considering my Yamaha Virago shaft drive holds 3/4 of a quart, idk, just saying if you live in the south or tow often, I would consider moving up gear oil weights. ultimately, I can see myself restoring a Subaru Baja w a wrxi engine to be truly satisfied.
 

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As far as the drivetrain, suspension and brakes in comparison to my G37X, the SC was not as heavy duty as the G, although they weigh about the same it was built more like, and I quote “a Rav or Crv”, quite disappointing but there is hope.
As a current G37 (Q60) and ex-350Z owner there is no way you can compare these two drivetrains. Nissan's platform is a RWD sports car with AWD added up front. I tracked my 350Z and other then undersized brakes the platform is stout, you see people supercharging and turbo charging them all the time. In comparison the SC is a FWD "car" that has been lifted and can send some power to the rear wheels incase it gets stuck in the snow or loose dirt. I never dug around under my brothers Golf R (also tracked) but I bet its more heavy duty then the SC. He was APR Stage II with an aftermarket AWD controller and that Golf would eat Camaros on the track.

I would imagine the SC is not a vehicle you want to attempt to launch hard with that JBL tune as driveline shock would be my main concern. If you roll into the power it should be a really fun on the street and surprise people. Personally my days of acting foolish like that are over. When I want my fast fix I take my C7 Z51 onto the track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
First off, I disagree that an sc can’t handle the “hard launch” of a JB4 tune because of the “shock” to the drive train. It’s at max a 100 HP/TQ tune, completely unlike adding extreme HP gains as is such w a sports car drivetrain. Secondly, one would hope that a SC is not a car but a glorified rav or crv build, I was hoping i purchased something along the lines of a highlander or pathfinder for $43K, I think I did but the sc has different attributes to be exploited, in a year there will so many bolt on performance items available. My point is that you need to know the limits of what a Santa Cruz is, the drivetrain will handle additional horsepower and torque, a golf comparison, really? Can it tow 5k pounds? With another honest 100 HP, I think a SC could hold its own w a lot of fast cars. I just think a person needs to upgrade the engine Oil and drivetrain fluid if you are increasing horsepower in an sc via a JB4 tune, I’m not talking Stillen supercharging. This is all why I want to know what’s in the DCT for gear oil and control fluid so I can replace it to reduce any “shock” from a potential 100 HP tune. BTW, I live in Iowa and if ur sports car or whatever can’t move in the snow and it needs a track than u finish last henceforth everything I own is AWD, beat me in July, let’s race in January as well.
 

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Secondly, one would hope that a SC is not a car but a glorified rav or crv build, I was hoping i purchased something along the lines of a highlander or pathfinder for $43K
Believe what you want and mod as you see fit.

However the SC is a CUV just like RAV4 and CRV, aka a "soft roader" - a FWD car based vehicle, so yes like a Golf to me. The extra TQ and weight distribution allows it tow 5k but I don't think that tow rating indicates any really super beefy driveline parts.

I don't street race because that is stupid and dangerous, a track is the correct place to enjoy your vehicles limits. I've been tracking cars for 8 years now, have instructed at HPDE events and I'm not worried about anyone "beating" me. I am more then happy to point by faster drivers.

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