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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody know the positive+ and negative- colors for the front doors? Swapping out the speakers and nothing is marked.
 

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I believe that someone posted this in another post. I don't recall, but you may be able to find the thread by searching on here. Best of luck to you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Many results after searching, but nothing specific. Can't define the parameters with the right keywords. Guess it will be a trial and error install..
Thanks..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, I found the main one which covers "Bose vs Non Bose" systems. Also a couple stating the factory schematics list numbers and not colors

Appreciate it..
 

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'22 SC Limited Hampton Gray
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You could do the battery test for polarity: paying attention to "+" & "-", hook 2 leads to a 9 volt battery and touch them to the speaker terminals. If the cone moves out, it would be in phase; it it moves in, it is out of phase. Now connect the corresponding speaker wires from vehicle to your new speakers.
 

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And don't forget to post the results back here. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Well got the front's and Sub in. Went with Infinity Kappa speakers and Kicker Sub from Crutchfield. 603CF in lower front doors, Kappa Perfect 300 for the center dash, the tweeters in the sail panels which are part of the 603 kit. Have the 63XF's due in Tuesday to finish the rear doors. Speaker sensitivity is listed around 93db. The adapters Crutchfield said would work, didn't. You have to cut off the plugs and strip the wires (thus the reason for this thread) .

Honestly, the door speakers don't make much of a difference. I would run the originals around 37-38 volume before distortion set in, now I am able to go to 41-42. The biggest difference is the Midrange and the tweeters (obviously the sub also). Big difference, especially the tweeters. If I was going to do it again, I would just go with replacing those. I had a shop run the sub wiring and he stated the under seat amp puts out around 15 watts per channel. The stock speakers are paper with rubber surround and Neo magnets. Pretty good excursion on them.

Down the road might get an amp installed, don't know yet but, I've spent right at 1K including the wiring for the sub. Time will tell once the speakers get broken in if it was worth it or not.

sK
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Snap some pics of how you did the sub install. I was just putting things together to add a 8” Q series L7. Debating if I want to take the stock plastic tray and use that as a mold to make a fiberglass box or just build a regular mdf box.
 

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Well got the front's and Sub in. Went with Infinity Kappa speakers and Kicker Sub from Crutchfield. 603CF in lower front doors, Kappa Perfect 300 for the center dash, the tweeters in the sail panels which are part of the 603 kit. Have the 63XF's due in Tuesday to finish the rear doors. Speaker sensitivity is listed around 93db. The adapters Crutchfield said would work, didn't. You have to cut off the plugs and strip the wires (thus the reason for this thread) .

Honestly, the door speakers don't make much of a difference. I would run the originals around 37-38 volume before distortion set in, now I am able to go to 41-42. The biggest difference is the Midrange and the tweeters (obviously the sub also). Big difference, especially the tweeters. If I was going to do it again, I would just go with replacing those. I had a shop run the sub wiring and he stated the under seat amp puts out around 15 watts per channel. The stock speakers are paper with rubber surround and Neo magnets. Pretty good excursion on them.

Down the road might get an amp installed, don't know yet but, I've spent right at 1K including the wiring for the sub. Time will tell once the speakers get broken in if it was worth it or not.

sK View attachment 4568 View attachment 4570
Well got the front's and Sub in. Went with Infinity Kappa speakers and Kicker Sub from Crutchfield. 603CF in lower front doors, Kappa Perfect 300 for the center dash, the tweeters in the sail panels which are part of the 603 kit. Have the 63XF's due in Tuesday to finish the rear doors. Speaker sensitivity is listed around 93db. The adapters Crutchfield said would work, didn't. You have to cut off the plugs and strip the wires (thus the reason for this thread) .

Honestly, the door speakers don't make much of a difference. I would run the originals around 37-38 volume before distortion set in, now I am able to go to 41-42. The biggest difference is the Midrange and the tweeters (obviously the sub also). Big difference, especially the tweeters. If I was going to do it again, I would just go with replacing those. I had a shop run the sub wiring and he stated the under seat amp puts out around 15 watts per channel. The stock speakers are paper with rubber surround and Neo magnets. Pretty good excursion on them.

Down the road might get an amp installed, don't know yet but, I've spent right at 1K including the wiring for the sub. Time will tell once the speakers get broken in if it was worth it or not.

sK View attachment 4568 View attachment 4570
Where did you tap into the left and right speakers wires for the Kicker input and what trim pieces did you have to remove?

Clint
AZ
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Where did you tap into the left and right speakers wires for the Kicker input and what trim pieces did you have to remove?

Clint
AZ
The Sub has it's own circuit, you don't need to tap into the other speakers for the signal. Not sure about the trim pieces. I had the sub installed.
 

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The Sub has it's own circuit, you don't need to tap into the other speakers for the signal.
Only in the Limited. For the others here is the wiring someone else posted:
Font Publication Number Rectangle Document
 
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