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Greetings..
New to the forum and a soon to be Santa Cruz owner.
My question on choice of models revolves around towing - looking for experiences towing with the SEL (base engine and 3500 lb max) vs the Turbo engine.
Will be towing a 2000 lb max trailer with brakes (Curt bluetooth controller).

Looking at ~$6K-$10K more for the Night or XRT trims to get the turbo engine... so trying to get a feeling for the capabilities of the SEL towing this weight.

@Ellie's Dad - did you receive your 7 pin harness yet?

Thanks!
gmc
An overdue thank you for the replies..
We ended up with the turbo in the XRT trim. It will tow for first time next month - but seems to have the power - certainly far more than SEL.

Hyundai dealer could not locate even a part number for the 7 pin harness. And vehicle didn’t have factory hitch. Added Curt hitch (UHaul) and 7 pin harness (Amazon) after the purchase. Already had Curt wireless controller.

Choice between Night and XRT - personal preference of course, but wanted the adaptive cruise control and didn’t want the low profile tires… so XRT it was.

Purchased using Costco’s buying program - limited dealers participate, but they went out of their way to find the car we wanted and get it there… Local dealer just wanted to sell me what was on the lot which didn’t meet the other half’s likes… (Kept saying they would find one / had one, but when asked for the VIN - crickets…. Participating dealer immediately offered the VINs on the two choices)

Thanks again!
gmc
 
An overdue thank you for the replies..
We ended up with the turbo in the XRT trim. It will tow for first time next month - but seems to have the power - certainly far more than SEL.

Hyundai dealer could not locate even a part number for the 7 pin harness. And vehicle didn’t have factory hitch. Added Curt hitch (UHaul) and 7 pin harness (Amazon) after the purchase. Already had Curt wireless controller.

Choice between Night and XRT - personal preference of course, but wanted the adaptive cruise control and didn’t want the low profile tires… so XRT it was.

Purchased using Costco’s buying program - limited dealers participate, but they went out of their way to find the car we wanted and get it there… Local dealer just wanted to sell me what was on the lot which didn’t meet the other half’s likes… (Kept saying they would find one / had one, but when asked for the VIN - crickets…. Participating dealer immediately offered the VINs on the two choices)

Thanks again!
gmc
I, too, will be taking my XRT for it's maiden trailer trip this Memorial Day.

I paid for the OEM hitch and 7-pin harness (part no. S2F67-AC500) as a dealer-installed option when I got my truck last September. As of three weeks ago, the 7-pin harness is still unavailable. I had the dealer install the hitch when I got my last oil change. Then I installed a Curt harness and brake controller myself.

We'll see if the OEM harness ever shows up, or if the dealer ever offers to give me back the $218 I paid for it... :)
 
Anyone in Iowa run into weird issues with the cops over whether or not trailers over 3k have to have a weight distribution hitch? Seems there's a kind of obscure law requiring them for everything between 2999 and an eighteen wheeler. And most of our hitches say to not use them.

Will void warranty, I was just told today 4/24/24 :(
What's up with dealers telling people their hitches will void the warranty? Someone on Facebook brought this up a day or two ago, that their dealer told them anything but the factory hitch and wiring would void the warranty.

You need to start by finding a better dealer and lawyering up about the Magnuson-Moss act.
 
I'll need to rent a small U-haul trailer for my first trip north so am researching the DIY on this (for a `22 SEL Premium). Hitch install looks easy, and it looks like the difference between 4- and 7-pin wiring is that 4-pin (Curt 56420) only has brake and turn signals. The 7-pin options I'm finding are the Curt 56466 for ~$100 and the Kia Telluride (S9F67-AC500); the latter seems overpriced. Since the 7-pin supports reverse lights and supplemental power (what's the wattage?), it seems worth installing, plus it comes with a bracket/mount. I assume U-Haul can plug-n-play with this (?).

The Curt hitch (C23WR) seems readily available but I plan to get the Draw-Tite (DT48GR; 76555) based on the prior comments on the pre-existing bracket tab, plus it's $60 cheaper. eTrailer has it for a few cents cheaper than Amazon, which is great because I try to shop megastore alternatives. Reese 84555 seems to be another option (with bracket mount); $249 through O'Reilly auto parts (but not in stock locally).

Regurgitating this for convenience, but please LMK if there's something I should beware of. Thanks for this thread!
 
Just got back from a 200 mile round trip, camping trip...a quick one.

Towed my travel trailer..a hard shell, 17 ft aluminum framed. 3100 lbs loaded.
Two adults, two 12 year olds....550 lbs total.
100 lbs of assorted stuff in the bed.

Trailer is about 4 ft taller than the roof of my SC.

Drove 60 mph, averaged 14.7 mpg. (Always the same each time I've towed

Auto level Shocks worked well, was level after a few miles.

Still amazed that it tows better (in my opinion) and with more stability than my Tahoe did.
Must be something to do with the wind interaction....differences between the two.
The trailer would sway now and then with the Tahoe...never has with the SC?

Plenty of power, hills or otherwise.

Wanted to throw it out there.

Ken
 
Since the 7-pin supports reverse lights and supplemental power (what's the wattage?), it seems worth installing, plus it comes with a bracket/mount. I assume U-Haul can plug-n-play with this (?).
The U-Haul likely has a 4 pin.

However I always recommend the 7 pin for two reasons: 1) the factory 4 pin was recalled and 2) future proof yourself to hook up to any trailer (4 or 7 pin) as long as you get a converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47345-Wire-Flat-Adapter/dp/B0002RNSKK/ that one is nice since has the test lights built-in so you can easily figure out if the trailer lights are faulty or not.

My setup is:
  • Draw-Tite hitch #76555
  • 7pin Curt wire harness #56466
  • Curt mounting bracket #58520
  • M5-0.80 x 16 pan phillips machine bolts with matching nylon insert lock nuts to secure the bracket
Image
 
Just got back from a 200 mile round trip, camping trip...a quick one.

Towed my travel trailer..a hard shell, 17 ft aluminum framed. 3100 lbs loaded.
Two adults, two 12 year olds....550 lbs total.
100 lbs of assorted stuff in the bed.

Trailer is about 4 ft taller than the roof of my SC.

Drove 60 mph, averaged 14.7 mpg. (Always the same each time I've towed

Auto level Shocks worked well, was level after a few miles.

Still amazed that it tows better (in my opinion) and with more stability than my Tahoe did.
Must be something to do with the wind interaction....differences between the two.
The trailer would sway now and then with the Tahoe...never has with the SC?

Plenty of power, hills or otherwise.

Wanted to throw it out there.

Ken

If its an older tahoe with no air ride then I'm not shocked at all. They rode awesome but they roll and lean like a boat on heavy waters. We have one. And ive been in maybe 100. The power was there. Gearing was there. Maybe the best engines GM ever had all the way across the board. 4.3, 4.8, and 5.3 all. before afm/dod. The 4l60 left a lot to be desired but still a 200k mile trans. The uptrims had air ride and pull better BUT had the transfer case with clutches for auto 4wd and those burn up and you don't have 4x4 anymore. Again a 200-300k mile problem but they were so good otherwise that people found the 300k mile issues. Lol.

Sway can be because of the Cruz being shorter. The air hitting the trailer causes drag and it won't sway. Draft behind a semi some day and your car will sway too. No air drag will do that when your in a slipstream.
 
Just got back from a 200 mile round trip, camping trip...a quick one.

Towed my travel trailer..a hard shell, 17 ft aluminum framed. 3100 lbs loaded.
Two adults, two 12 year olds....550 lbs total.
100 lbs of assorted stuff in the bed.

Trailer is about 4 ft taller than the roof of my SC.

Drove 60 mph, averaged 14.7 mpg. (Always the same each time I've towed

Auto level Shocks worked well, was level after a few miles.

Still amazed that it tows better (in my opinion) and with more stability than my Tahoe did.
Must be something to do with the wind interaction....differences between the two.
The trailer would sway now and then with the Tahoe...never has with the SC?

Plenty of power, hills or otherwise.

Wanted to throw it out there.

Ken
What camper are you towing?

Recently ordered a TAB 360 and curious what sort of MPG folks are getting with their setups.
 
If its an older tahoe with no air ride then I'm not shocked at all. They rode awesome but they roll and lean like a boat on heavy waters. We have one. And ive been in maybe 100. The power was there. Gearing was there. Maybe the best engines GM ever had all the way across the board. 4.3, 4.8, and 5.3 all. before afm/dod. The 4l60 left a lot to be desired but still a 200k mile trans. The uptrims had air ride and pull better BUT had the transfer case with clutches for auto 4wd and those burn up and you don't have 4x4 anymore. Again a 200-300k mile problem but they were so good otherwise that people found the 300k mile issues. Lol.

Sway can be because of the Cruz being shorter. The air hitting the trailer causes drag and it won't sway. Draft behind a semi some day and your car will sway too. No air drag will do that when your in a slipstream.
Was an 07 LTZ with air ride, self leveling etc. Essentially had all the options.
Loved the Tahoe. Kept it in the family after replacing the engine. AFM Engine made it to 147,000 miles.
Pretty lame for a Chevy V8, but typical of those motors.
A great rig otherwise.

Santa Cruz feels better towing.

Ken
 
What camper are you towing?

Recently ordered a TAB 360 and curious what sort of MPG folks are getting with their setups.
It's a 17 Ft Funfinder made by Shadow Cruiser.
Aluminum framed, not wood. Down the road and loaded for camping it's 3000-3100 or so lbs.
I didn't hit the scales this time as I've done it a half dozen times and know the weight within a hundred lbs or so.

At 60 mph I always get between 14 and 15 mpg, on drives that include rolling hills, nothing crazy steep.
At 55 mph I'm sure I could get around 16 mpg. It's all about the wind resistance in my case.

Ken
 
It's a 17 Ft Funfinder made by Shadow Cruiser.
Aluminum framed, not wood. Down the road and loaded for camping it's 3000-3100 or so lbs.
I didn't hit the scales this time as I've done it a half dozen times and know the weight within a hundred lbs or so.

At 60 mph I always get between 14 and 15 mpg, on drives that include rolling hills, nothing crazy steep.
At 55 mph I'm sure I could get around 16 mpg. It's all about the wind resistance in my case.

Ken
Thanks! Everyone seems to be across the board on MPG with towing a camper. Hoping the teardrop is a bit more friendly on the gas.
 
Just got back from a 200 mile round trip, camping trip...a quick one.

Towed my travel trailer..a hard shell, 17 ft aluminum framed. 3100 lbs loaded.
Two adults, two 12 year olds....550 lbs total.
100 lbs of assorted stuff in the bed.

Trailer is about 4 ft taller than the roof of my SC.

Drove 60 mph, averaged 14.7 mpg. (Always the same each time I've towed

Auto level Shocks worked well, was level after a few miles.

Still amazed that it tows better (in my opinion) and with more stability than my Tahoe did.
Must be something to do with the wind interaction....differences between the two.
The trailer would sway now and then with the Tahoe...never has with the SC?

Plenty of power, hills or otherwise.

Wanted to throw it out there.

Ken
Towed two round bales on trailer did great. Surprised how strong it felt. Still got 20 mpg . Pretty good. Lots hills around here.
 
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