Hyundai Santa Cruz Owners Registry: Add Your Info Here!

Upgraded audio! 4 channel + speakers! 😀

21910 Views 81 Replies 30 Participants Last post by wolfeprop9599, 3 d ago

Ingkel

Discussion Starter · Jan 14, 2022

Hello cruzers,new member here, just wanted to let everyone one know it’s pretty easy to upgrade the audio in the Santa Cruz. I replaced all the speakers and added a 4 channel amplifier. I didn’t take out the factory head unit, all signal wires were located in the kickpanels ( I am using amp with high level inputs). The sound is like night and day from the underpowered factory system. I’ve been in the car audio field for 25+ years and have plenty of experience. If anyone needs any help upgrading their factory system, I’m here to help! BTW this was done in the non Bose SEL vehicle.

Reactions: 5

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Spiff

· #2 · Jan 14, 2022

Where did you place your amp?

With speaker replacement, I'm guessing you used component fronts. Did you use the crossover that came with them or did you use what I assume is a factory crossover? Did you just glue the tweeters in?

Ingkel

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jan 14, 2022

Spiff said:
Where did you place your amp?

With speaker replacement, I'm guessing you used component fronts. Did you use the crossover that came with them or did you use what I assume is a factory crossover? Did you just glue the tweeters in?

Amp is under the drivers seat, I’m using coaxials in the lower doors and separate tweets in factory pod, using PAC bass blockers in line for the tweets. I used a backstrap to make a mount to hold tweets using factory screws no hot glue.

Reactions: 1

Ingkel

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jan 14, 2022

BTW the factory crossover is mounted to the factory tweeter

Reactions: 1

Mayhem1906

· #5 · Jan 14, 2022

Ingkel said:
Amp is under the drivers seat, I’m using coaxials in the lower doors and separate tweets in factory pod, using PAC bass blockers in line for the tweets. I used a backstrap to make a mount to hold tweets using factory screws no hot glue.

Since I understood none of that, I'm going to take it that what's easy for you and other people is going to be very hard for me. Which speakers did you replace them with?

Reactions: 1

Ingkel

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jan 14, 2022

I had some Memphis PR’s 6.5 coaxials laying around, the factory speakers r 6 3/4” so I had to use a spacer bracket. I know everyone is not an installer, but I can answer any questions u might have on upgrading speakers or whatnot.

Reactions: 1

Mike G.

· #7 · Jan 14, 2022 (Edited)

Ingkel said:
Hello cruzers,new member here, just wanted to let everyone one know it’s pretty easy to upgrade the audio in the Santa Cruz. I replaced all the speakers and added a 4 channel amplifier. I didn’t take out the factory head unit, all signal wires were located in the kickpanels ( I am using amp with high level inputs). The sound is like night and day from the underpowered factory system. I’ve been in the car audio field for 25+ years and have plenty of experience. If anyone needs any help upgrading their factory system, I’m here to help! BTW this was done in the non Bose SEL vehicle.

Do you have any pics?

and

Were the wires in the front kick panels for the front and rear speakers?

Ingkel

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jan 14, 2022

I didn’t take any pics, and yes the right side speakers r in the right kick, left side speakers r in the left kick. If u need wire colors I have them.

Reactions: 1

Spiff

· #9 · Jan 14, 2022

Ingkel said:
BTW the factory crossover is mounted to the factory tweeter

Gotcha. That's very helpful information. This might be a summer project for me. I'm going to try and find a harness that lets me splice in without cutting factory wires first.

Mike G.

· #10 · Jan 14, 2022

Ingkel said:
I didn’t take any pics, and yes the right side speakers r in the right kick, left side speakers r in the left kick. If u need wire colors I have them.

Yes - please post the colors of the wires!

Reactions: 1

Mike G.

· #11 · Jan 14, 2022

Ingkel said:
I didn’t take any pics, and yes the right side speakers r in the right kick, left side speakers r in the left kick. If u need wire colors I have them.

What amp did you use? I was thinking about using the Alpine KTP-445U, as I used it in past vehicles with good results. Its not a huge amount of power, but it does have crossover and gain adjustments.

Also, do you know if there is a center channel in the non-Bose? It really sounds like there is a solid center stage and there are mids that I'm sure are not coming from the puny tweeters.

yak

· #12 · Jan 14, 2022

Mike G. said:
Yes - please post the colors of the wires!

Me too please post the colors. I have a small kicker 180.4 key amp I could use from my old car. Would just need to upgrade speakers then

Ingkel

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jan 14, 2022

The amp I am using is the Infinity Primus 6004a. Yes I know about the center speaker in the dash, I’m gonna leave in running off head unit power. Speaker wiring attached.

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Reactions: 4

JMII

· #14 · Jan 14, 2022

Ingkel said:
Speaker wiring attached.

Thank you - this will help a lot of people

Reactions: 1

kayakangler

· #15 · Jan 15, 2022

Ingkel said:
The amp I am using is the Infinity Primus 6004a. Yes I know about the center speaker in the dash, I’m gonna leave in running off head unit power. Speaker wiring attached.

Was the Infinity amp and plug-n-play replacement of the factory amp? Or did you need to get special harnesses or splice wires? Were you able to use the factory amp power wire or did you have to run a new one?

I'm looking for a plug n play solution so I can leverage the factory wiring and not have to run cable or splice wires.

Ingkel

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jan 15, 2022

kayakangler said:
Was the Infinity amp and plug-n-play replacement of the factory amp? Or did you need to get special harnesses or splice wires? Were you able to use the factory amp power wire or did you have to run a new one?

I'm looking for a plug n play solution so I can leverage the factory wiring and not have to run cable or splice wires.

I did not have the factory amp, there is no special harness. I had to run 2 pair of wires to each speaker wire location, which I found to be most convenient and accessible in the kick panels. I ran a total of 8 pairs of wire ( 1 pair to get signal to the amp, then from the amp back to kick panel). There is no plug and play, you are going to have to cut and splice wire, there’s nothing to it and is totally reversible. And yes I had to run a new power wire to the battery. If you don’t feel comfortable doing it and decide to take it to a shop to have it done, they will do it like I did.

justin1328

· #17 · Jan 15, 2022

Pictures with a write up would be greatly appreciated. I have been planning this out for a couple weeks, but new cars are way different from the stuff I used to play with in the 90's....

and the non Bose systems needs a lot of help. Would love to see how and where you tapped the existing wires from source to amp and back to the speakers?

Do you also happen to know if we can tap existing wires for the BOSE sub under the back seat in a non Bose system? Does anyone know if they ran the wires for the sub anyway? If so do you happen to have this pin out? If not, what would you recommend tapping into for high levels for powered sub, in addition to an amp for fronts and back..... Thank you in advance for any help and guidance.

Reactions: 1

Ingkel

Discussion Starter · #18 · Jan 15, 2022

Pull the kick panel on either side there will be several white molex connectors, the speaker wires r twisted and the colors r listed above in the attachment. Cut rhe speaker wire according to the color noted, make sure u leave enough room to attach new wires, ie don’t cut the wires too close to the connector or too high on the harness. The output from the radio comes down from the top of harness and the signal to the speaker goes into the molex. Cut that pair in the middle so u have room to splice. The speaker wires r bigger than some of the other wires in the harness and are twisted. U can be verify u have the right wires by ohming the wires with a multimeter, the factory speakers r 4 ohm, u will get that ohm load at the molex not at the other end of the cut wire, since it goes to the head unit.
As far as adding a sub with the non Blows, I mean Bose system, u will have to tap into a door speaker to get signal. Use 2 speakers to tap into, left and right, not front and rear. That’s why LOCs have 4 input wires, for 2 speakers, more signal for the amp low level input (RCAs). Hope this helps.

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justin1328

· #19 · Jan 15, 2022

Ingkel said:
Pull the kick panel on either side there will be several white molex connectors, the speaker wires r twisted and the colors r listed above in the attachment. Cut rhe speaker wire according to the color noted, make sure u leave enough room to attach new wires, ie don’t cut the wires too close to the connector or too high on the harness. The output from the radio comes down from the top of harness and the signal to the speaker goes into the molex. Cut that pair in the middle so u have room to splice. The speaker wires r bigger than some of the other wires in the harness and are twisted. U can be verify u have the right wires by ohming the wires with a multimeter, the factory speakers r 4 ohm, u will get that ohm load at the molex not at the other end of the cut wire, since it goes to the head unit.
As far as adding a sub with the non Blows, I mean Bose system, u will have to tap into a door speaker to get signal. Use 2 speakers to tap into, left and right, not front and rear. That’s why LOCs have 4 input wires, for 2 speakers, more signal for the amp low level input (RCAs). Hope this helps.

Thank you Ingkel very much. I understand all the basics of the wiring, would love to see your work...

I was hoping you had a few pictures to share to save the time of guessing RF+, RF-, LF+, LF-, RR+, RR-, etc........ if not I will default to toning each one out.... Seriously though, Thank you kind sir.....

kayakangler

· #20 · Jan 15, 2022

Ingkel said:
I did not have the factory amp, there is no special harness. I had to run 2 pair of wires to each speaker wire location, which I found to be most convenient and accessible in the kick panels. I ran a total of 8 pairs of wire ( 1 pair to get signal to the amp, then from the amp back to kick panel). There is no plug and play, you are going to have to cut and splice wire, there’s nothing to it and is totally reversible. And yes I had to run a new power wire to the battery. If you don’t feel comfortable doing it and decide to take it to a shop to have it done, they will do it like I did.

Thanks for sharing.

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