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2025 XRT 1,000 Mile Review (detailed)

12K views 24 replies 12 participants last post by  PorkiePie  
#1 ·
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I know a lot of potential buyers check out the forums prior to purchase, so I’d thought I’d give my 1,000-mile review (about 2 months) of the 2025 Santa Cruz in XRT trim. There’s lots of good info on this forum on the ’22-’24 models, so I’m just adding my thoughts on the refresh.

TL;DR: It’s a GREAT car with very minor drawbacks/annoyances (as I’ll detail below). If you are considering either a ’24 model for a discount or a new ’25 model, I would say absolutely go with the ’25. The interior refresh, tech and elimination of all that glossy black plastic and capacitive touch buttons in the center stack were worth it to me. And, frankly, I still got a decent discount on my XRT (about $1,500 off MSRP– more if you count the standard add-ons like LoJack, door protectors and pain protection that I refused to pay for). The 3.9% finance rate was also a bonus, so I feel like I still got a good deal compared to the minor savings I could’ve gotten on a ’24.

THE GOOD:

I love the look/style, especially the XRT trim in Blue Stone color. To me, it doesn’t need any mods – just some window tint and a nice ceramic/graphene coating. This is my daily driver and work vehicle (I run my own business), and I still love just looking at it whether parked out and about or simply sitting in my garage.

The utility is also pretty much perfect. I came from a 2016 Nissan Frontier, and the SC does all the truck things I need and with way more comfort. Bed size and layout, tie downs, retracting bed cover, storage compartments and bed extender (aftermarket from Amazon) all work perfectly. We’ve had a lot of rain lately, and the bed cover does allow some water into the bed near the sides and tailgate, but nothing out of the ordinary. Still plenty dry for my expectations.

The cabin is attractive, with good materials and pretty excellent fit and finish (despite a few remnants of glossy black plastic, like near the window switches). It really feels premium – but I imagine the hard plastic door cards and urethane steering wheel on the lower trims would cheapen the feel greatly. The leather-wrapped steering wheel feels great, if maybe a little thin near the top (I prefer it a bit “girthier”). Seats are also comfortable with adjustable lumbar, and the faux leather feels good. Enough room in the back seat. Visibility is also fine – I’ve had no real issues with the height/size of the rear window.

The suspension & handling are surprisingly excellent, not just for a small “truck,” but for any vehicle this size. I live in the Sierra Nevada foothills and drive some sporty mountain roads almost daily, and once I get it out of the first few gears (more on the transmission later) I can push this thing pretty hard on the twisties and feel planted and secure. We also have a lot of bad road surfaces, and the ride is very compliant – even with the stock Continental TerrainContact A/T tires. **Note that I switched those tires out for Nokian WRG5 all-weather rubber to better handle seasonal ice & snow and trips to the Tahoe ski resorts. I actually think the Contis are great and will serve most drivers well (and definitely “look” the part on the XRT), but I had already felt a bit of slip on some morning ice and knew I had to upgrade the grip levels.

The tech is good and user interface is visually appealing and mostly intuitive. Good resolution, colors and black levels. **QUICK TIP – set the blue-light filter to its lowest level and to be always on, as it makes the color tone more warm and, frankly, more accurate and comfortable on the eyes. Bluetooth has been reliable, and music has played off a USB drive perfectly with correct album art & metadata. I haven’t used Android Auto much (which is actually a testament to the quality and usability of the stock system), so can’t comment on that much.

Customizable buttons are nice, but I would like more options (like a shortcut to tone settings so I can quickly adjust the bass for music vs. podcast listening). GPS works well so far, though the guidance “voice” isn’t very appealing. Controls for the HVAC are well laid out and easy to use (and definitely better than the earlier models, IMO). However… one odd issue is that when you turn the HVAC system off, air will still blow out of the vents you were previously using unless you turn on air recirculation. Maybe I missed this in other newer vehicles, but it’s kind of strange when you think you are driving with the system off and suddenly the smell of a dead skunk or diesel fumes wafts into the cabin.

The BlueLink app is pretty intuitive and functional. All remote climate starts have worked perfectly.

THE ”MEH”:

The drivetrain is both very good and below average. The 2.5T engine is very good – plenty of power and torque and predictable delivery. For the hilly terrain where I live, I wouldn’t consider the NA 4-cylinder at all. However, the 2.5T sounds rough and loud in the lower gears.

The main issue is, of course, the wet dual-clutch transmission. Overall, it’s actually been decent and better than I expected (and I believe Hyundai has further refined it in the ’25 models). In most situations and especially highway cruising it’s smooth and responsive. But, it does falter in specific situations. On cold mornings, it can be a bit clunky in low gears. And even when it’s warmed up, stop and go isn’t as smooth until you learn your own specific “brake-coast-gas” dance with your right foot. However, the main frustration is in reverse gear. Every day I back into my garage from the top of my driveway. I have to first back up a small incline and then go downhill the rest of the way. In order to back up that incline, I have to really press the gas or the car won’t move and then I’m flying down the incline towards my house. So, I have to let off the gas immediately and the transmission “clunks” in and out of gear. Not a smooth experience. On level ground, the car reverses slowly as expected by just lifting off the brakes, totally fine for parking lots & such.

**For some reason, I feel like the transmission (and drivetrain overall) behaves a bit better in the “Smart” drive mode. This might be complete placebo effect, but I’d love to hear anyone else’s experience with this. Do you notice anything different in “Smart?”

As a point of comparison, my family also owns a 2024 BMW X1, which also has a turbo 4-cylinder and DCT – a surprisingly similar drivetrain implementation. However, the Bimmer’s DCT is much smoother in every situation. That engine is also much quieter, especially in low gears. It might be unfair to compare a BMW to a Hyundai, but they cost about the same, so, at least BMW has proven you can have a smooth experience pairing a turbo-four and DCT.

Another disappointment is fuel economy. Currently, I’m averaging 20 mpg with a good amount of highway driving mixed in. I know driving up and down elevation is the biggest factor, so flat-landers are likely going to see much better numbers. But, one of the reasons to go with an automated manual transmission is an increase in MPGs over a traditional torque-converter unit. In the BMW, this is definitely the case where we average nearly 30 mpg overall (again, in hilly terrain) and well over 40 mpg on highway trips (sometimes 50 mpg when going downhill!). From what I understand, that transmission can “disconnect” from the drivetrain while coasting in order to minimize parasitic drivetrain loss. The BMW also a bit lighter than the SC, so that’s obviously a factor, but I’m still mildly disappointed in the fuel economy overall.

Highway Driving Assist is fine (as are the other safety systems), but not exceptional. I feel like the SC makes a bit more microadjustments while tracking the lane and reacts a bit too quickly to braking when other vehicles merge into your lane. This is a minor issue as overall the system is good, it’s just not quite a smooth as the BMW’s Driving Assistant Plus (basic level) system.

Last issue is the price. Frankly, even with discounts I feel it’s a touch too expensive to be considered a good value (it’s a FAIR value, meaning you aren’t feeling ripped off. But, it’s not a GOOD value, where you feel you are getting a lot for your money. Hyundias used to feel that way). It’s more pronounced on the XRT and Limited trims. I think around $38,000 (about where the current SEL w/activity sits) should be the starting point for the XRT. Even in limited trim, I could never pay nearly $45k for a Santa Cruz. Just my opinion.

HEAD SCRATCHERS (BUT NOT DEAL BREAKERS)

The LCD instrument cluster is not very configurable. And, there’s no way to show the digital speed in the very center of the cluster (only inside the left circle showing the speed gauge). Again, not a deal breaker, but it’s definitely an annoyance as my steering wheel position sometimes blocks the readout.

The infotainment and instrument displays auto-dim haphazardly and I’ve found no way to turn the auto-dim off. It is not tied to the auto-headlights.

Speaking of the auto-headlights, they also are not very good at determining when to turn on and off. Dark, raining days they have been off and then sometimes turn on when it’s brighter out. The auto-high beams do seem to work well.

The keyless entry isn’t great. Locking the car takes a longer touch of the handle than it should, and unlocking is hit-or-miss at best. Sometimes you grab it in the right spot, sometimes not. And having to let go of the handle and then grab it again to unluck all the doors is even more spotty. Frankly, a simple button would work so much better.

The key fob is not well-designed and feels a bit cheap. It also could be 20-30 percent smaller. At least the smooth shape helps it fit relatively comfortably in a pocket.

The final, and most maddening, issue for me is the shape of the rearview mirror. In every other vehicle I’ve owned (or frankly driven), the mirror is either oval or tapers and gets wider towards the bottom, thereby matching the general shape of the rear window in order to maximize visibility. In the SC, the mirror is wider at the top and therefore cuts off the bottom corners of window. I’m not sure why this bothers me as much as it does, but I’ve tried to flip the mirror around but it won’t work in that orientation. If anyone has experience/instruction on how to replace the mirror, please let me know!!! – I don’t need HomeLink and don’t want to run wires…just a simple swap out for a better shape.


Anyway, if you’ve read this far…congrats. You must be interested in purchasing a 2025 Santa Cruz. I’d say do it (and I’d say go with the XRT if budget allows). So far, it’s been the best vehicle I’ve owned as my daily driver.
 
#18 ·
Feeling it shutter in stop and go traffic and nearly stalling every time you go from reverse back to drive was annoying.
Guess it depends on your expectations. The DCT is smoother then I can manipulate the clutch on some stick vehicles I've owned. The exception would be Honda's as those were just buttery smooth (back in the 80s/90s). What I've noticed is the more torque a vehicle has the rougher the clutch engagement... which might explain why those older Hondas shifted so well. Could also explain why the SC is a bit rough to engage as the turbo is pretty torque-y down low. I know in my C7 getting it to slow roll isn't easy as it wants to rip the rubber off the wheels once in gear ;) To get around this GM actually slightly delays throttle response in first gear at low RPMs. So in this regard I find the DCT performance to be perfectly acceptable.

The DCT is a trade off... first and reverse are a little clunky but all other shifts are perfect - fast and imperceptual, smooth, linear acceleration. I've always hated the way slushboxes shift, with that hang-on-a-minute pause between each gear so I love the DCT. I even found the way standard automatics pull away from a stand sill with no throttle input a bit disconcerning. The first automatic I drove (I learned to drive with a manual) scared me, you take your foot off brake and vehicle goes ahead, somewhat quickly, without touching the gas.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Interesting take...and comparison with the BMW.

Couple things that came to mind:

First, the BMW goes from about 42,000 to 51,000 dollars if I have my figures correct. That is not ALOT more, but definitely more than the XRT where I live.

Second, I am not sure if its been changed, but I can toggle my display to show the Speed in the center of the dash. I do not do so, as I have a speedo to the left, but I think if you look, you will find that you can pull up the additional display. Mine is one button push past the "all wheel drive" animated display.

Third, the DCT certainly takes some getting used to, and I do think the VW's and BMW's I have driven are better implemented. But, I actually expect that. They have more experience in this arena.
I have stated elsewhere in this Forum, that if Hyundai would simply tweak their DCT Programming a bit, they could really have a winner with the current DCT.

Lastly, and in my experience with BMW's...this is a big one.
You mentioned "Value". This is just my personal observation, but comparing the Powertrain Warranty's would factor into that "Value" discussion.

I have bought more than a couple of 7 or 8 year old (or more) BMW's for a ridiculously low price. If people think BMW's "hold their value"...they are crazy.
After the Warranty expires, BMW's are a bargain! (if purchased privately)

Here is what I have experienced. Once BMW owners (in general, not the young enthusiasts) start having to replace brakes, and perform other maintenance...they seem quick to simply trade in/up.
The loss they take on the trade in, is often less than the next year or two's likely maintenance and repair cost! Especially once out of the Warranty period.
The cost for maintenance at a BMW facility (Many of the middle aged/older folks go there) is off the charts!
I have found that even though the Powertrains are pretty reliable, BMW owners get scared after the Warranty runs out, because of repair and maintenance costs.
One trip to the Service Department for a "Non Covered" repair...and people are shocked!
The BMW's I did own, I maintained myself. A typical cooling system replacement for example (at about 100,000 miles) cost me about 700 dollars in parts. At the dealership, the cost of the repair was over 3200.00 dollars! There are other examples...idler pulleys, Ignition Coils...basically the accessories and switches etc etc.
All of them extremely expensive at the dealership.
IF your powertrain fails outside of Warranty on a BMW...at 6 or 7 or even 9 years...a new (not a reman, or used) tranny or engine is prohibitively expensive.

I say all that, to highlight that the Powertrain Warranty on the Hyundai, HAS to factor in when we talk value. If you need an engine or tranny at year 7, 8 or 9...it is covered. (Unless you did something weird) It might take a while, it might be a pain...etc...but, it will not cost you 7-10 thousand dollars of your own money.

The Warranty has always been a big deal to me. It was the reason I bought an Isuzu Rodeo in 2001. (10 years, 120,000 miles)

It is a big part of why I jumped into the 2023 Santa Cruz....even with what was going on at the time with the 2022 DCT HPOP issues.

I do recognize "many" people don't keep their vehicles for 10 years and/or 100,00 miles.
I tend to do so, and it is with that perspective in mind, that I write this post.

If you will be trading a Hyundai or BMW in...after 3-5 years, none of my "Warranty" babbling is applicable.

If you are keeping either, the Warranty could be a very big deal.

Just some thoughts.

Ken
 
#24 ·
Interesting take...and comparison with the BMW.

Couple things that came to mind:

First, the BMW goes from about 42,000 to 51,000 dollars if I have my figures correct. That is not ALOT more, but definitely more than the XRT where I live.

Second, I am not sure if its been changed, but I can toggle my display to show the Speed in the center of the dash. I do not do so, as I have a speedo to the left, but I think if you look, you will find that you can pull up the additional display. Mine is one button push past the "all wheel drive" animated display.

Third, the DCT certainly takes some getting used to, and I do think the VW's and BMW's I have driven are better implemented. But, I actually expect that. They have more experience in this arena.
I have stated elsewhere in this Forum, that if Hyundai would simply tweak their DCT Programming a bit, they could really have a winner with the current DCT.

Lastly, and in my experience with BMW's...this is a big one.
You mentioned "Value". This is just my personal observation, but comparing the Powertrain Warranty's would factor into that "Value" discussion.

I have bought more than a couple of 7 or 8 year old (or more) BMW's for a ridiculously low price. If people think BMW's "hold their value"...they are crazy.
After the Warranty expires, BMW's are a bargain! (if purchased privately)

Here is what I have experienced. Once BMW owners (in general, not the young enthusiasts) start having to replace brakes, and perform other maintenance...they seem quick to simply trade in/up.
The loss they take on the trade in, is often less than the next year or two's likely maintenance and repair cost! Especially once out of the Warranty period.
The cost for maintenance at a BMW facility (Many of the middle aged/older folks go there) is off the charts!
I have found that even though the Powertrains are pretty reliable, BMW owners get scared after the Warranty runs out, because of repair and maintenance costs.
One trip to the Service Department for a "Non Covered" repair...and people are shocked!
The BMW's I did own, I maintained myself. A typical cooling system replacement for example (at about 100,000 miles) cost me about 700 dollars in parts. At the dealership, the cost of the repair was over 3200.00 dollars! There are other examples...idler pulleys, Ignition Coils...basically the accessories and switches etc etc.
All of them extremely expensive at the dealership.
IF your powertrain fails outside of Warranty on a BMW...at 6 or 7 or even 9 years...a new (not a reman, or used) tranny or engine is prohibitively expensive.

I say all that, to highlight that the Powertrain Warranty on the Hyundai, HAS to factor in when we talk value. If you need an engine or tranny at year 7, 8 or 9...it is covered. (Unless you did something weird) It might take a while, it might be a pain...etc...but, it will not cost you 7-10 thousand dollars of your own money.

The Warranty has always been a big deal to me. It was the reason I bought an Isuzu Rodeo in 2001. (10 years, 120,000 miles)

It is a big part of why I jumped into the 2023 Santa Cruz....even with what was going on at the time with the 2022 DCT HPOP issues.

I do recognize "many" people don't keep their vehicles for 10 years and/or 100,00 miles.
I tend to do so, and it is with that perspective in mind, that I write this post.

If you will be trading a Hyundai or BMW in...after 3-5 years, none of my "Warranty" babbling is applicable.

If you are keeping either, the Warranty could be a very big deal.

Just some thoughts.

Ken
I loved my Rodeo.. had a Trooper too... too bad they sourced the Trooper engine from GM. It blew up with just 90k on her. :(
 
#14 ·
Thanks for your 1000 miles write up. You've made some very good points. I am barely a week old with my Cruz Limited . I agree about the remote, it is too bulky. I hope my mileage end up being higher than what you're experiencing. I am seeing my readout between 20 to 22 mpg. I haven't refilled my tank yet to reset the trip yet to compute my on own mpg reading. The engine/DCT is very polished for me, with my gentle driving for my break-in miles. I too, back up (an incline)to my driveway into my side facing garage. I've felt what I'm guessing is a delay or a different sensation while backing up going up my driveway. It feels like auto brake is on. This my first ownership of a DCT vehicle. But, my niece has a Volkswagen GTI, her DCT is very nice operating.

As you go beyond your update, please continue to give your feedback. It's valuable information. Thank you.
 
#4 ·
I would add that before buying a 2025 XRT/Limited try driving on a sunny day with sunglasses and seeing if the Smart Cruise Control stays engaged. For me the answer to that was a resounding "no"! No matter how many pairs i tried. Camara on the steering column didn't like my glasses. I am loving the '23 SEL Premium CPO I exchanged it for tho...
 
#2 ·
I just recently got a 2025 xrt Santa Cruz and agree with a lot of your comments. I have 700 miles so far and my biggest complaint so far is the dead space in the gas pedal. In all my other vehicles, I’ve had model specific “pedal commanders” which have helped immensely. In my 2019 trd pro 4Runner I use the Australia throttle grenade and in my 2013 paceman all4 turbo, we used a mini specific pedal mod. I’m hoping to find a reputable Santa Cruz pedal mod to get rid of the dead space