It would be easy at least $2k off msrp near LA since 24s are rolling in.

 

Sorry to hear that mate, but it is going to vary based on location and model. I got my limited sage gray in Nov '22 and it was 41K near Pittsburgh, PA. I would wait until a few more 24 models come around to lower the '23 model year prices if you can

 

In the Cleveland, OH area I had dealers down to about 36.5k for a SEL Premium. That was with Hyundai's 2k finance promo & ~1.3 dealer "discount". I ended up going with one that had 3.8k miles for 35.5.

 

OTD is going to vary drastically depending on location but you should be able to get under MSRP. I just got my SEL for under MSRP a few weeks ago here in the Seattle area, which is notorious but insane markups.

 

In Feb, I paid MSRP for mine....(23 SC SEL AWD, NoAP ) where most dealers for other make vehicles had adds to the MSRP and then dealer installed item added too..

 

Ya that's the same exact model I got as you. Those are probably easier to get under msrp maybe? Most people probably want the higher end trim with the turbo. I personally didn't so was a win for me to get mine under msrp, especially in this area.

 

For SD, $34k-$36k for a SEL Premium would be a good deal. Expect to pay $39k+ for a limited. I'm in California in OC, so I have a pretty good idea about pricing. Work them for any rebates or lower APR. For CA, skip the non Turbo. Best of luck.

 

Turbo and DCT=trouble....... especially if you plan to keep it awhile. Of course if you want to be part of the 0-60 crowd and spend 7-10k more be my guest...

 

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Last week - found an SEL speced exactly as wanted but not knowing the market, I took an internet dive for retail numbers. Looked at what dealer lots were advertising, mostly sticker plus add-ons. The low milers snagged by Carmax pirates were holding high value basically a couple grand off sticker. But of course, the 10/100,000 warrantee was bye-bye.

I found you can enter a VIN on Edmunds site and it does a 'best deal' calc based on your zip. It came back with $38,496 which was a good number I noted. The advertised (sticker) price with dealer add-ons ($600) was higher than the Edmunds target. I kind of got the message the dealer doesn't really move off that number 'cause they don't have to. Someone will buy it as listed. They had two on the lot and four '24's on order. They stated they can't keep SC's on the lot as they're the number two seller. Palisade is number one. Hmmm, guess you have to feel lucky to snag one? They sold both SC's before the 4th weekend. My SC had 5 mi. on it and came in June, 23. Not even demoed.

I was given a $1K (Hyundai incentive) and a military discount of $500 off which lowered the OTD price $470 higher than the Edmunds number. Not too bad. Oh, and no remorse, no drama, no regrets. Nice!

 

I wouldn't trade two non-turbos for my trouble free Turbo & DCT- rumours are more trouble than fact, in my experience

 

You need to look at the recalls and the posts on this board more...those are NOT rumors. The Turbo/Dct has been an issue since the 2021 models were introduced and have continued to be an issue. You may be lucky with yours but to say this is more "rumours"..when the NHTSA says differently is anything but a "rumour"

 

My experience - is 43k+ miles not a single issue.

I could concentrate on the handful of plane crashes I read about or the thousands of trouble free flights I never see, to read about - sure there are posts about DCT fails - Mine is not one of them, I can read about something negative on every trim or transmission - and I can relay my own experience, recall? a 5 minute check , I'm only balancing out your negative with my positive.

 

It was a MASSIVE risk to buy a Cruz 2 years ago. Unproven new engines and platforms and the third generation of the biggest recalled engine in history with the added first of variable valve duration. PLUS a dct which has been junk in many many vehicles. From Ford to the mighty GT-R.

I don't see many issues that are exclusive to the turbo though. Injectors fail in both. The dct had some issues but nothing huge. The NA is equipped with a stupidly high compression ratio so I don't think it will be any 300k mile vehicle either. 13:1 compression is , to say the least, NOT indicative of "long lasting" historically

Longterm I expect nothing great but if your at 43k now then you will likely wear it out before "long term" even comes around. Lol

 

lol Mr positive

 

Teardown and build a few hundred engine and you get pretty decent at guessing what will last and what won't.

Still just a guess though. But an educated one

 

Much prefer an answer based on experience than a sensational heading - I also drive per my age and maintain/check regularly.

 

But with the Cruz there is no experience. The Theta 3 engine was new for the Cruz. Both na and Turbo. The dct was as well. Other than the new things that "might" go wrong, there just isn't any experience with much of anything on the new Cruz. The worm gear drive vvd is never used on anything. 13:1 compression is unheard of in a 87 octane pump gas street engine....

May be the new Mercedes diesel or small block Chevy. Who knows. But most of us who build and work on cars cringe at the spec sheets. Lol

 

My last Hyunda had the Theta 2, and was snorting oil at 216k km, but by that time it was a known issue

 

I wonder what magic they're doing to run high compression motors on 87.

I don't trust that at all. I think they're just trying to lower projected fuel costs.

 

I wonder what magic they're doing to run high compression motors on 87.

I don't trust that at all. I think they're just trying to lower projected fuel costs.

Id imagine they bleed off compression by using the variable valvetrain to close later. That's the only way I can figure. Probably why we only get 24 mpg from a 190 HP too

No other way you would only have 190 HP out of a 2.5 with 13:1 compression.

 

I wonder if it's anything like how Mazda does it. They're using a 190hp 13:1 N/A 2.5L that gets ~24mpg in a few models.

We've got bootleg skyactiv

 

They are up to 14:1. Lol

They are rated at 24 city though. 30 highway and in big suv.

They use the exhaust valve and retarded timing to stop detonation. Never had one myself.

I am considering a cx90 with the inline 6 though

 

Back to the original question ....................

Purchased 12/1/2021 At Kearny Mesa Hyundai in San Diego, Limited with all the lovely California "Fees" ,Tax , License out the door was $45,782.63. Personally I would stay away from that dealer to the east in the "bowl" but KM Hyundai was fair at MSRP with no up or BS charges which was so prevalent back then.

 

I'm on the other side of the fence, 131 fuel ups, maybe once wasted someone else's buck on premium, the remainder all regular, I do too many kms to always fill it with whiskey. Its peppy enough for me, and I'm not complaining on the fuel consumption

 

Sure, the engine is rated and designed for 87. Doesn't need whiskey to make the published HP. The higher octane is by choice. Those fearing issues getting extended life from their high-comp engines with low-comp fuel may choose to use it. High comp. motors normally demand high octane - thus the comments. But this is an exception. The legends and myths are out there so I offer a solution - go to a higher octane. I run hotter fuel for completely different reasons knowing Hyundai is not tricking us.

Higher grade fuel may help if you drive hard, when trailer toting, or just feeling froggy to 'clean it out.' I chose to bump it up a notch to 88-90 (Plus) because I wrap up miles slowly and it seems to like it. And on occasion, I give all my cars a treat - non-ethanol 91 to clean the intake and fuel systems. Can I tell it's in there? No.

The Mini manual (near the same compression) states premium only unless you have no other option where it can run low grade. But... top it off with premium ASAP. The Hyundai manual states 87 and up. That's it. Nice to know it can adapt to all. Pretty sure there's zero HP gain with hotter fuel, might even be the placebo effect with throttle response? Thing is, we can run whatever we want. Sweet!

 

I give all my cars a treat - non-ethanol 91 to clean the intake and fuel systems. Can I tell it's in there? No.

I drive several vehicles and bikes with carbs so I just fill everything with 93 E-0. It about 75 cents more than 87 with E. I don't feel it's necessary but you will always get better mpg with E-0 anyway. So why not.

In my F150 its about 30 bucks a tank difference though. But the 5.0 does specify you get more HP from 93. Then the added mpg too.

 

I just picked-up '23 Premium in Sage for 6,400 below MSRP. I live in Richmond Va, drove 90 miles to Woodbridge. Found the deal through TrueCar.com

 

Virginia August (late July???) 2021 fresh off the delivery truck my SEL w/ Activity was $35.5k (after taxes, etc. and minus trade). But that was when stocks were lowest and I was "lucky" enough to "only" pay MSRP.

 

I saw 7 new 24 models coming in at one local dealership ranging from $30,600 SE AWD to $44,000 for a limited. That limited had over $1,500 in added stuff they threw with it too