Not to beat a dead horse I installed my curt hitch in 18 minutes I do have a lift in my garage though. it fit perfectly

 

Update: My local U-Haul took the hitch back without an issue. They gave me a price of $76.00 to install. Hard to pass up!

 

Just received my Curt hitch from etrailer today and had the same exact issue. I first bolted the driver side. Kept it some what loose so that it will be easier to work on the passenger side. Once I got to the passenger side, there was a significant gap. I can fit my hand through the hitch and frame. I called etrailer for support and now I'm waiting for a tech to get back to me. I did not want to torque down the passenger side with that big of a gap. Not only that, I could not get the bolt from the bottom to go in because the hole did not line up. Do you have pictures of the gap you had? Did you end up having Uhaul to install?

Driver's side

Passenger side

 

Agree with childoffire79…..that’s how they work. Not sure if they are Korean design though….I’ve seen these over the years on other non Korean vehicles. But when putting them back on…you can just push them….and also they will tighten clockwise. Weird, but they work…

 

 

I did not take any pics, but your pics look like mine was. When I removed the hitch, I could tell the driver's side was bent inward. I will have U-Haul install it for $76.00, but they are charging me $25 more for the new hitch itself. The guy who took the order didn't know why. I figure I'll bring it up when I have it installed.

 

Honestly, that is no big deal, just tighten the sides the gap will close and tighten the bottoms. That is how I did mine! Ron

 

Wondering if anyone else who installed the Curt hitch had similar problems? How much of a gap is normal and when you torque it down, do the plates become flush with the frame rails or will there always be a gai?

 

Mine had about 1/4" both sides combined. Fit like a glove and tightened to the rails when torqued..

 

I'm sure if the width of hitch was somehow squashed during shipping it could be stretched back out using bolts when installing. Just start horizontal bolts on each side and tighten back and forth from one side to the other until you can install vertical bolts and then torque

 

I'm sure if the width of hitch was somehow squashed during shipping it could be stretched back out using bolts when installing. Just start horizontal bolts on each side and tighten back and forth from one side to the other until you can install vertical bolts and then torque

Squashed ! Really !

 

Sounds like a manufacturing defect instead of shipping damage. you would have noticed the shipping damage to be off that far with that thick of steel.

 

I'm sure Curt uses a jig to weld these together.

 

We’ll folks…I got the hitch installed. Bolted the four side bolts first and centered the hitch as much as possible. This allowed me to get the two bottom bolts through. Then I tightened the four side bolts evenly and watched the steel plates getting close to flush with the rails. Tightened the bottom bolts last to allow the steel plates to stretch out. Took my time and eventually all the plates became flush with the rails. Torquing the bolts down were PITA on the passenger side. Not much room. I torqued them to 60 lb-ft per the instructions on the Curt website. The paper instructions called out 86 lb-ft but decided to go with 60 since it was close to the OEM spec of 68 lb-ft. I honestly could not muscle out the extra 8 lb-ft lol.

No plans to tow (at least no yet). Needed the hitch to mount my bike rack.

 

We’ll folks…I got the hitch installed. Bolted the four side bolts first and centered the hitch as much as possible. This allowed me to get the two bottom bolts through. Then I tightened the four side bolts evenly and watched the steel plates getting close to flush with the rails. Tightened the bottom bolts last to allow the steel plates to stretch out. Took my time and eventually all the plates became flush with the rails. Torquing the bolts down were PITA on the passenger side. Not much room. I torqued them to 60 lb-ft per the instructions on the Curt website. The paper instructions called out 86 lb-ft but decided to go with 60 since it was close to the OEM spec of 68 lb-ft. I honestly could not muscle out the extra 8 lb-ft lol.

Congrats on getting the hitch installed. The Curt instructions had a typo that was pointed out by another member. The torque specs should be 68 ft/lbs and not 86. In the tight space it is really tough torqueing the bolts. I got the drivers side to 68, but passenger side two upper bolts was as close as I could. Upper bolt I got to 68. Most of the install time was trying to torque those dang bolts.

 

Just my 2 cents here. I just installed the OEM tow hitch and wiring harness on my SC Limited last night. The hitch lined up very well with all the holes. However it did take me awhile to install since it was heavy and I was working alone. I would suggest getting the OEM tow hitch, work with a partner, and remove the muffler. It’s very difficult to fully torque the bolts on the right side with the muffler hanging in the way. I know the OEM hitch is expensive, but the fit is exact. Enjoy your hitch, which ever one you decide to get.

 

First and foremost, I would like to thank everyone on this forum for their input. Thanks to you guys, I was able to install my hitch.

I reached out to Curt directly and they still have not gotten back to me at all. Etrailer finally got back to me today (4 days later) and according to their tech, confirmed that the hitch "flexed" and that they would replace the unit. Since I already installed the hitch and definitely did not want to install again, I declined the replacement.

I did inquire about the discrepancy in the torque figures. Per the paper instructions that come with the hitch, it should be 86 ft-lb. Per Curt instructions, it should be 60 ft-lb. OEM is 68 ft-lb. Etrailer confirmed that the torque spec should be 60 ft-lb. Just wanted to pass this information along to all those who are planning to install the Curt hitch in the future. I hope this helps.

 

What the bolts can take is based on their class and if you use a lubed torque.

 

Agreed but the unknown are the threads. In our production line, it’s not whether the bolt can sustain the torque but rather the threads. Our torque wrenches are specified accordingly so that our operators do not strips threads. A broken bolt is easy to replace but a stripped thread means we scrap the product.

 

I just installed my Curt Hitch and I had gaps on both side as well... Initially just Hand thread each side bolt in about a 1/2 Inch so its up there leave the bottom bolts out get your ratchet or air Ratchet and start running the bolts little at a time going from one to the other the hitch will snug to the frame nicely torque the bolts to 60 lbs, then install the lower bolts and torque them..

Good luck

 

The width between the body mounts should be the same width as hitch

Curt Trailer Hitch Unboxing and DIY Install (how I did it)

After a long backorder wait my Curt trailer hitch finally arrived in a strong sturdy box. It looks beautiful as ever and not a scratch on it. It's a super hefty nicely built hitch rated for 5,000lb towing and 750lb tongue weight. Delivery included instruction sheet and bolts. Backed my SC...

www.santacruzforums.com

 

Thanks. Just got off the phone with Curt. The support guy said the gap between the frame and the mounting plates of the hitch should be about 3/8" on both sides. On mine it's over 1 and 1/4". He suggested it may have been bent in shipping, although it doesn't appear to be. I'll be reversing my partial install and taking the hitch back to U-Haul. Thanks for the replies!

 

As heavy as hitches are, they definitely can get bent in transit. I've gotten open box ones on Amazon before with bends- my dad has a Curt class IV on his Silverado that was around $50, but had to have the mounts widened slightly (they were too tight the way it mounted).

We cut a 2x6 that was the correct length for the separation and hammered it between them to widen the arms slightly.

 

The carton was fully intact. I checked it before opening. I’ll give it another try today using @billcf7 method.

 

Attempted to install this hitch 2 weeks ago. I was able to partly install the hitch because I was unable to get the last bolt to thread, which was the vertical bolt closest to the bumper on the passenger side. There was a >1/4" gap before I torqued the 3 of the passenger side bolts down. Waiting for it to warm up before I attempt to thread the last bolt, which seems to be an issue with the bolt receiver on the SC and not the bolt itself. I am guessing that there is paint or crud in there that needs to be cleaned with a wire brush and compressed air, or at least I hope that's what it is... All that said, there was a significant gap before torquing the bolts, I thought is was acceptable / normal, now you all have me questioning if there is a design flaw. Now wondering if the last bolt wont line up because of the gap... Does anyone know if a local U Haul will install a hitch that was purchased online?

 

If you look at the design of the Curt hitch compared to the OEM you can see how it can be easily changed dimensionally on the width

 

This thread is why I only buy the OEM hitch for my cars. I have installed them on Subaru, Toyota, Dodge, etc and all fit with no issues. I know you can save money buying an aftermarket part, but when I am on my back doing the install on the weekend I want it to fit. My SC hitch will be delivered this Thursday. To bad the truck will not arrive until mid Feb.

 

I've used Curt hitches on two Silverados, an S10, three RAV4s, an HHR, an Escape, and now the Santa Cruz. Total I've lost less than thirty minutes for poor fit (the one Silverado), but saved a whole lot of money over OEM hitches. I'll keep taking my chances.

 

I wonder if some Tucson hitches got sent out by accident

 

FWIW my Curt trailer hitch from U-Haul's website had about a 1/4" gap, but all the bolts were easily installed before tightenning down any; even the bottom bolts in the slotted holes. 🤷‍♂️

I also torqued mine per the Curt instructions that came with it to 86ftlb (that's about the same as the lug nuts at 80ftlb & installed before the differences were pointed out). I haven't heard if Curt themselves have stated that their instructions are correct or in error? There's no reason a bolt that size can't take 86ftlb's, but I don't know about the Hyundai unibody inserts they screw into. The Curt hitch comes with thick "cone" nurled edge lock washers that normally need a specific torque to be properly installed.

 

Good to know that the threads can take the 86 ft-lb. Etrailer confirmed to me that is should be 60 ft-lb. There’s another member who spoke to Curt directly and also confirmed that it should be 60 ft-lb.

Trailer Hitch

Has anyone installed the Hyundai trailer hitch? Any photos on how it looks?

www.santacruzforums.com

 

I installed the Curt hitch last weekend and have a gap and wasn't concerned until I saw this thread. The hitch was shipped directly from Curt and the box was perfect so there was damage in shipping but there is definitely a gap. I spoke with Curt earlier today as I intended to install the wiring, that arrived this week, today and wanted this clarified before doing so. They asked for photos and this is what I sent. That is the gap torqued to 68lbs. Thoughts?

 

Just got my Curt hitch, FedEx lost it for multiple days. It arrived naked, not in a box, no instructions, etc. Is this how everyone else got theirs? It's also scratched up in some spots but I guess I can spray some black Krylon on that. Just not impressed with how it was shipped so far.

 

Did you get the hardware. And they are supposed to come boxed, at least mine did

 

Mine was packaged as if they had a monkey in charge of the shipping department. Had holes and damage at every corner. Had to repaint.

 

Mine was packaged as if they had a monkey in charge of the shipping department. Had holes and damage at every corner. Had to repaint.
View attachment 16423

At least they made some attempt to protect it. . I will just hit the rough spots with Krylon and call it a day.