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No issues with power, 15-19mpg depending on grade, used AWD only when needed as it burns a lot of gas. The brakes overheated several times, (I suggested to Hyundai they should upgrade the brakes with the turbo version). Hyundai requires the transmission to be left in auto mode. (Transmission does try to control speed after braking). Three passengers, gear, and ~ 3300lbs trailer, no issues, no sway, we recommend the setup.
If you mean you used AWD lock "only when needed" be aware that AWD lock automatically disengages over about 36 mph. Above that speed and at all times when you don't have AWD locked it's "on demand" AWD. Not sure what you mean by "Hyundai requires the transmission to be left in auto mode". You can paddle shift at any time with the trans lever in normal "auto" mode, or you can move the lever to manual mode and control all shifts with the paddles. As previously mentioned, you might want to check trailer brake operation if you're having overheating problems. With that said, can you elaborate on how you knew they were overheating? Did the brakes fade, fail to stop, peddle to the floor, etc, or did you just smell hot brakes?
 
If you mean you used AWD lock "only when needed" be aware that AWD lock automatically disengages over about 36 mph. Above that speed and at all times when you don't have AWD locked it's "on demand" AWD. Not sure what you mean by "Hyundai requires the transmission to be left in auto mode". You can paddle shift at any time with the trans lever in normal "auto" mode, or you can move the lever to manual mode and control all shifts with the paddles. As previously mentioned, you might want to check trailer brake operation if you're having overheating problems. With that said, can you elaborate on how you knew they were overheating? Did the brakes fade, fail to stop, peddle to the floor, etc, or did you just smell hot brakes?

I think they meant that unlike most vehicles that have a tow mode that hyundai recommends towing in normal rather than smart or sport? But idk.

The awd part im unsure of. Lol.
 
I think they meant that unlike most vehicles that have a tow mode that hyundai recommends towing in normal rather than smart or sport? But idk.
I would think that Sport mode would be good for towing as its uses more of the rev range (both up and down). Since I tow such a light load I leave it in normal (and it performs fine) but I do use the paddles. I'll short shift when the extra revs aren't needed and downshift to spool up the turbo when I need some extra power. This is one aspect that makes the DCT really good in a towing application. Long term reliability is still TBD but for now it has exceeded my expectations.

As previously mentioned, you might want to check trailer brake operation if you're having overheating problems.
Agreed. While the SC doesn't have massive brakes they are bigger then ones on my old Dakota (heck it had rear drums) which was rated to tow even more. Base vehicle weight between the two was within 100lbs with the SC being slightly lighter.
 
Well to clarify, these roads were mountain passes where we had to pull off and take a rest to allow the brakes to cool. We monitored with a temperature gun. We routinely check the trailer brake controller setting before towing for the day, and test brakes while moving.
 
The curt model had bright lights even when towing, we considered the Tekonsha Prodigy ID but it seemed overly complicated, we decided on RedArc Liberty, simple, small button on dash, we also needed an adapter cable. I think we used a Curt adapter cable.
 
Well to clarify, these roads were mountain passes where we had to pull off and take a rest to allow the brakes to cool. We monitored with a temperature gun. We routinely check the trailer brake controller setting before towing for the day, and test brakes while moving.
It would help us understand what you meant if you'd provide answers to my previous post:

If you mean you used AWD lock "only when needed" be aware that AWD lock automatically disengages over about 36 mph. Above that speed and at all times when you don't have AWD locked it's "on demand" AWD. Not sure what you mean by "Hyundai requires the transmission to be left in auto mode". You can paddle shift at any time with the trans lever in normal "auto" mode, or you can move the lever to manual mode and control all shifts with the paddles. As previously mentioned, you might want to check trailer brake operation if you're having overheating problems. With that said, can you elaborate on how you knew they were overheating? Did the brakes fade, fail to stop, peddle to the floor, etc, or did you just smell hot brakes?
 
When the button on the console is depressed to lock is when gas mileage suffers.

Towing on grades 8 and higher, during long down hill runs, it is prudent to pull off and let the brakes cool. Used smell and temperature gun to monitor rotor temperatures.

instruction manual states that using manual control of transmission to help control speed (using a lower gear) is not allowed when towing

Another annoying thing is that towing speed is limited to 60mph.
 
They're probably worried about people smoking the clutches. For every rule in the CFR and every annoying warning label, there was "that guy" somewhere. Like the guy who decided to serve coffee hot enough to give a little old lady third degree burns.
 
Our second outing. All is good. 390 tongue weight, 3,300 trailer weight with gear, no water. Thanks for all those sharing their tips and experiences. Prodigy 2 brake controller mounted on fuse panel. Rear wheel wells sit down about an inch after the rear shocks “self level”.

In and around the Appalachians in Tennessee, pulls hills much better than my Ford 302, turns and brakes smoothly (but not like an F150). Well under all weight limit totals with all gear and no water.
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Nice tongue weight. I haven't weighed mine yet (I have a scale for it, just haven't got around to it yet), but I am guessing 550+/-. The OEM weight is 420 plus the extra weight from the Power Package (manufacturer says +120).

What rise are you using with the hitch ball (I use a 9" rise)?

Jack
 
I am using a 6” rise. My trailer tongue sits ~ 17.5” to the bottom lip from the ground on level ground with the frame level. The top of my receiver after “self leveling” is ~ 11.25”. I am going to remeasure again on this trip. I think something closer to 6.5” would be perfect so the trailer frame rides perfectly level. There was a CAT scale right on my route for our first outing. First time using CAT scales but it was easy and accurate so I am sure about the weights.

I looked at the battery operated tongue lifts but was worried about tongue weight. I am wondering why a person cannot just weld a nut on the crank arm (after cutting off most of it) and then use a 20v drill or impact driver like folks do with the stabilizers on each corner.

I am going to add a friction anti sway bar once I get the exact ball rise as I will need to weld a tab on the ball mount. While I think I am fine without it, my first pull went through a narrow mountain pass with 20-30 mph gusts and heavy 18 wheeler traffic and made me think I would feel better about the handling with a sway bar. I am not sure what the Santa Cruz actually does to control sway ( says something about braking) so it could be helping as well.

I am confident enough to tackle a trip from northeast Tennessee to Nova Scotia, hopefully this spring.

Take care.
 
I am using a 6” rise. My trailer tongue sits ~ 17.5” to the bottom lip from the ground on level ground with the frame level. The top of my receiver after “self leveling” is ~ 11.25”. I am going to remeasure again on this trip. I think something closer to 6.5” would be perfect so the trailer frame rides perfectly level. There was a CAT scale right on my route for our first outing. First time using CAT scales but it was easy and accurate so I am sure about the weights.

I looked at the battery operated tongue lifts but was worried about tongue weight. I am wondering why a person cannot just weld a nut on the crank arm (after cutting off most of it) and then use a 20v drill or impact driver like folks do with the stabilizers on each corner.

I am going to add a friction anti sway bar once I get the exact ball rise as I will need to weld a tab on the ball mount. While I think I am fine without it, my first pull went through a narrow mountain pass with 20-30 mph gusts and heavy 18 wheeler traffic and made me think I would feel better about the handling with a sway bar. I am not sure what the Santa Cruz actually does to control sway ( says something about braking) so it could be helping as well.

I am confident enough to tackle a trip from northeast Tennessee to Nova Scotia, hopefully this spring.

Take care.
Mine is 21.5" to the bottom of the ball lip, so I need a much taller rise, 9" seems to be level, maybe 10" but close enough. I'm not in love with this much rise but given the TT has a 3" lift kit now standard, it is what it is, and I'll deal with it. I am not currently using any sway control; my initial plan was WD and sway in one but with unibody you can't use a WD system, so that made me decide to wait and see how it towed, before deciding if I need any sway control. So far (only one 420 mile trip home from the dealer and I haven't felt the need, or even the need to tap the brake controller yet.

Your tongue weight is more than fine IMO, you are under 400, I am well over 500 and still feel comfortable so I suppose it's all relative. That being said, I wouldn't worry about lightning your tongue at all. Mine on the other hand, I may just have to continue to tow with no propane or fresh water and fill up at my destination to keep it where it is, going to officially weight it this weekend so I know with 100% certainly what the actual weight is ;-)

Jack
 
Mine is 21.5" to the bottom of the ball lip, so I need a much taller rise, 9" seems to be level, maybe 10" but close enough. I'm not in love with this much rise but given the TT has a 3" lift kit now standard, it is what it is, and I'll deal with it. I am not currently using any sway control; my initial plan was WD and sway in one but with unibody you can't use a WD system, so that made me decide to wait and see how it towed, before deciding if I need any sway control. So far (only one 420 mile trip home from the dealer and I haven't felt the need, or even the need to tap the brake controller yet.

Your tongue weight is more than fine IMO, you are under 400, I am well over 500 and still feel comfortable so I suppose it's all relative. That being said, I wouldn't worry about lightning your tongue at all. Mine on the other hand, I may just have to continue to tow with no propane or fresh water and fill up at my destination to keep it where it is, going to officially weight it this weekend so I know with 100% certainly what the actual weight is ;-)

Jack
I had no trouble steering (WDH puts more down force on the front axle) and do not feel like a WDH would help me much.

Glad to hear your 420 mile tow went well good luck on your next trip and weigh in.
 
Just got the truck back from an offroad shop in Pearland. Went with the Draw-Tite hitch, and the guy at the counter remarked that he liked how it had a tab for the 7-pin bracket. Other than that, I went Curt and had the Spectrum dial put in the spot everyone usually gets it.

What do I not have? A trailer, lol.
 
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